Ripping out old RV flooring is one of those projects that completely transforms your space. It's not just about looks; it's about getting rid of years of ground-in dirt, musty smells, and who-knows-what-else. Knowing when your carpet has gone from "a little worn" to "definitely done" is the key to preventing bigger headaches, like moisture damage to your subfloor. Think of it as a smart upgrade for both your comfort and your rig's resale value.
Deciding When to Replace Your RV Carpet
Let's be real—that factory carpet has probably seen better days. While updating a dated look is a great reason for a change, the decision to replace your RV flooring often goes much deeper. That worn-out carpet can actually affect your comfort, your health, and even how much your rig is worth.
Over time, the fibers just give up. You get those permanently matted-down pathways in high-traffic spots like the entryway or in front of the kitchen sink. Those worn areas are magnets for dirt and are almost impossible to truly get clean. This is where those persistent, musty odors come from. No amount of air freshener can fix a carpet and pad that have trapped years of moisture, dirt, and allergens.
Telltale Signs Its Time for an Upgrade
Beyond the obvious stains that just won't come out, there are a few other dead giveaways that it's time for new flooring. If you’re constantly fighting a damp smell, especially after it rains or in humid weather, your carpet is probably holding onto moisture. In an RV, that's a serious red flag that can lead to mildew and even rot in your subfloor.
Keep an eye out for these other signs:
- Fraying Edges: When the carpet starts unraveling along walls, under slide-outs, or at transition strips, it’s not just ugly—it’s a tripping hazard.
- Padding Breakdown: Does the floor feel lumpy or less cushioned in certain spots? The padding underneath has likely deteriorated and isn't doing its job anymore.
- Allergy Flare-Ups: If you find yourself sneezing and sniffling more inside the RV, it might be the carpet. Old carpets are notorious for hoarding years of dust, pollen, and pet dander.
Sometimes, you just know it's time for a change. Use this quick checklist to see if your carpet's best days are behind it.
Carpet Replacement Decision Checklist
| Symptom | What It Means | Recommended Action |
|---|---|---|
| Persistent Odors | The carpet and pad have trapped moisture, dirt, and bacteria. | Deep cleaning might help short-term, but replacement is the only permanent fix. |
| Visible Stains | Stains have set deep into the fibers, resisting all cleaning attempts. | If professional cleaning fails, it's time to replace the carpet. |
| Fraying or Bald Spots | High-traffic areas have worn down completely. | This is purely wear and tear. The carpet has reached the end of its life. |
| Increased Allergies | The carpet is holding onto years of dust, dander, and pollen. | Time for a new, clean surface. Consider hypoallergenic flooring options. |
Deciding to replace your carpet is a solid move for the health of your RV. Once you've made the call, the fun part of choosing a new style and material can begin.
A flooring upgrade is more than just a cosmetic fix; it’s an investment in your RV’s health and longevity. Addressing worn, odor-trapping carpet not only makes your space more enjoyable but actively protects your subfloor from potential moisture damage and boosts its overall appeal.
Protecting Your Investment
You might be surprised how much flooring affects your RV's resale value. Industry data suggests RVs can lose 20-30% of their value pretty quickly, and a stained, smelly carpet is a huge turn-off for potential buyers. Upgrading the flooring is one of the most effective ways to make your rig look clean, modern, and well-cared-for.
Making an informed decision is key. For more tips, this guide on how to determine the perfect time to replace your carpets has some great insights. I recommend tackling this project during your off-season or when you'll be parked for a while, so you have plenty of time and good ventilation.
Of course, flooring is just one piece of the puzzle. Staying on top of all your rig's needs is crucial, and a good RV maintenance checklist can make sure nothing slips through the cracks.
Choosing the Right Flooring for Your RV Lifestyle
Alright, you've decided to ditch the old carpet. Now comes the fun part—choosing the material that will completely transform the look and feel of your rig for years to come. This is where a little planning goes a long way and saves you from the headache of buying the wrong amount of flooring or picking something that just can't handle life on the road.
Before you even think about shopping, grab your tape measure. Trust me on this one: measure everything. Twice. RVs are notorious for their odd angles, wheel wells, and slide-outs that laugh in the face of simple square footage calculations.
- Get a solid measurement of the main floor area, wall to wall.
- Measure the floor inside each slide-out separately.
- If you're redoing the cab area, measure that too.
- Don't forget the steps, landings, or any other little carpeted corners.
Once you have all your numbers, add them up and then tack on an extra 10-15% for waste. This little buffer is your best friend. It accounts for bad cuts, tricky angles, and gives you peace of mind that you won't have to make a desperate run back to the store mid-project.
Comparing Popular RV Flooring Options
Now that you know how much you need, what kind should you get? RV flooring has a tough job. It needs to be lightweight, durable enough for constant foot traffic, and able to withstand the wild temperature and humidity swings that are just part of RV life.
Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) is a fan favorite for a reason. It's waterproof, tough against scratches, and a breeze to clean—perfect if you're traveling with kids or pets. It's also relatively thin and light, so you won't be adding a bunch of unnecessary weight to your setup.
Carpet Tiles are a fantastic DIY-friendly option if you still want the warmth of carpet. Make a bad cut? No problem. Spill something that won't come out? Just pop out that single tile and replace it. You get the sound-dampening and cozy feel of carpet with way more practicality for a mobile space.
Sheet Vinyl is another great lightweight and waterproof choice. It can be a bit of a beast to wrestle with in a cramped RV, but once it's installed, you have a seamless surface that's incredibly easy to wipe down.
While carpet offers great insulation for cold-weather camping and better grip for pets, it's a magnet for dirt and a disaster waiting to happen with any water leak. Thankfully, most RVs have a solid plywood subfloor that can handle almost any material, so the choice really comes down to your travel style and budget.
The Great Carpet Debate: Carpet Tiles vs. Residential Carpet
You might be tempted by that plush, high-pile residential carpet remnant you saw on sale, but I'd strongly advise against it. That stuff is heavy, holds onto moisture like a sponge, and is a nightmare to install around all the built-in furniture and tight corners inside an RV.
Here’s a quick rundown of why tiles usually win out:
| Feature | Carpet Tiles | Residential Carpet |
|---|---|---|
| Installation | Way easier for a DIYer. You just need a utility knife. | A real pain to cut and fit into tight, awkward spaces. |
| Weight | Lighter and much more manageable. | Heavy and bulky, adding significant weight to your rig. |
| Repairs | Super simple. Just swap out the damaged tile. | Very difficult. Requires patching or replacing the whole thing. |
| Moisture | Less likely to trap moisture underneath the floor. | The pad can trap water, leading to mold and subfloor rot. |
The best flooring for your RV is the one that actually fits your lifestyle. If you're a weekend warrior who sticks to paved campgrounds, your needs are totally different from a full-timer who boondocks in the desert. Be honest about how you use your rig.
This choice is one of the most impactful RV upgrade ideas you can make. For more great advice on making your selection and finding some deals, check out these tips on how to pick floors/carpet and get the best deals.
Essential Tools and Adhesives
Having the right gear on hand will make this job infinitely smoother. You don’t need a pro-level workshop, but a few items are absolutely non-negotiable.
- A sharp utility knife with a big pack of extra blades. You'll go through them faster than you think.
- A heavy-duty staple remover or a small pry bar for the demo phase.
- A measuring tape and a metal straightedge to ensure your cuts are accurate.
- Knee pads. Seriously. Don't skip these. Your knees will thank you later.
The adhesive you choose is just as critical as the flooring itself. An RV subfloor is designed to flex, and it goes through some pretty extreme temperature changes. You need a glue that can move with it. Look for a pressure-sensitive adhesive that’s specifically rated for RV or marine use. This type of glue stays slightly tacky, which allows the flooring to expand and contract without bubbling up or peeling at the seams. Always double-check the flooring manufacturer’s recommendation to make sure your glue is compatible.
Getting Down to Business: Carpet Removal and Subfloor Prep
Alright, planning is over. Now it's time for some good old-fashioned demolition. Tearing out that grimy, dated carpet is one of the most satisfying parts of this whole project, but I’ll be honest—it’s also where the surprises pop up. The goal here is simple: strip everything down to the bare subfloor to create a perfect canvas for your new flooring.
First things first, you need to clear the deck. Your RV furniture has to go. Most dinette benches, sofas, and even the captain's chairs are usually just bolted right through the carpet into the subfloor. Grab a socket wrench or your drill and start unfastening them. Do yourself a huge favor and label every single bag of screws and bolts. It seems tedious now, but you'll thank me when you're not playing a frustrating game of "guess which screw goes where" during reassembly.
A quick pro tip: wrap the corners of your furniture in old blankets or towels before you try to wrestle them out the door. RV hallways are notoriously tight, and it's ridiculously easy to ding up cabinets and walls. A little padding now saves you from a bigger touch-up paint job later.
The Great Carpet Rip-Out
With the furniture gone, you can finally get to the fun part. Find a corner, get a good grip, and just start pulling. I find it’s way easier to cut the old carpet into smaller, more manageable strips with a sharp utility knife. Trying to haul a single, giant piece of carpet out of a narrow RV door is a workout you don't need.
As the carpet comes up, the padding underneath should come with it. Sometimes it does, but often it’s glued or stapled down on its own. Be prepared for a mess. You’re about to uncover years of dirt, sand, and who-knows-what-else that has settled deep into the fibers.
Get ready for a war with staples. RV manufacturers seem to get a bulk discount because they use thousands of them. You'll find them holding down the carpet along every wall, under every cabinet, and especially around the cockpit and slide-out edges. This is, without a doubt, the most mind-numbing part of the job, but pulling every last one is non-negotiable.
Seriously, don't skimp here. A good pair of knee pads, a dedicated staple puller, and some needle-nose pliers are about to become your best friends. If you leave even one staple behind, it can create an annoying lump under your beautiful new floor or, worse, puncture it down the road.
Tackling Tricky Spots: Slide-Outs and Cockpits
Slide-outs and cockpits are where this job gets a little more technical. The carpet often disappears under the slide-out floor or is molded perfectly around the doghouse and seat pedestals up front.
For your slide-outs, you typically don't have to worry about the carpet that's permanently hidden underneath when the slide is closed. The trick is to cut the old carpet with a utility knife right along the inside edge of the slide, making the cut as clean and straight as possible. Your new flooring will butt up against this line, and a nice transition strip will cover the seam perfectly.
The cockpit area just requires a bit of patience. You’ll need to carefully cut the carpet around the seat bases and the center console. In many motorhomes, the only way to do it right is to unbolt the front seats entirely. Yes, it adds some time to the project, but the professional-looking finish is absolutely worth the extra step.
Subfloor Inspection and Repair: The Moment of Truth
Once the carpet, pad, and a million staples are gone, you’ll get your first good look at the subfloor. This is the single most important inspection you'll do. You're hunting for any sign of water damage—look for dark stains, delaminated plywood, or any spots that just feel soft underfoot.
Grab a screwdriver or an awl and poke any area that looks suspicious. The wood should be solid. If your tool sinks in easily or the wood feels spongy and crumbles, you've found rot. Pay close attention to these common problem areas:
- Right around the entry door
- Directly under windows
- In the corners where walls meet the floor
- Anywhere near plumbing lines in the kitchen or bathroom
It only takes 24 to 48 hours for mold and mildew to start growing on a damp surface, so even a small, old leak can cause serious hidden damage. If you find rot, you have to fix it now. Laying new flooring over it is like putting a band-aid on a broken bone—it will only get worse and can eventually compromise your RV's entire structure.
For small soft spots, you might get away with using a wood hardener. But for anything more significant, you'll need to cut out the bad section of plywood using a circular saw or a multitool. Make your cuts well into the solid, healthy wood. Then, fashion a patch from marine-grade plywood of the same thickness. This type of plywood is designed for wet environments and is far more resistant to future moisture. Secure your patch with construction adhesive and screws, making sure it sits perfectly flush with the surrounding subfloor.
With repairs done, the final prep step is to get that subfloor obsessively clean and smooth. Use a floor scraper to get rid of any old adhesive. Fill screw holes, seams, or any low spots with wood filler, then sand everything smooth once it's dry. Finally, sweep and vacuum like you've never vacuumed before. A pristine, level subfloor is the foundation of a great flooring job, so don’t rush this part.
Installing New Flooring in Complex RV Spaces
With the old carpet gone and your subfloor prepped, it's time for the transformation. This is where all that hard work finally pays off, but RVs never make it easy. Unlike a square room in a house, you’re up against curved walls, wheel wells, cabinet bases, and that notoriously tricky slide-out.
Success here boils down to two things: patience and precision. The absolute best way to avoid costly mistakes and wasted flooring is to make templates for every single cut. This isn't just a friendly suggestion—it’s the secret to getting it right without pulling your hair out.
Mastering the Art of the Template
Forget trying to measure and cut those awkward shapes directly on your brand-new flooring. Instead, grab some heavy-duty paper, cardboard, or a roll of rosin paper. Lay it in the section you're working on and carefully trace the exact outline of every wall and obstacle.
- Tape pieces of paper together if you need to cover a larger area.
- Use a small block or even just your finger to press the paper tightly into corners and edges, then trace the crease you've made.
- For curves, make a series of small, straight relief cuts in the paper. This allows it to lay flat against the curve so you can connect the dots for a perfect line.
Once your paper pattern is perfect, you can lay it on top of a carpet tile or vinyl plank and transfer the cut lines. This method is virtually foolproof and a total game-changer, especially in tight spaces like the cockpit or around the toilet.
Creating a template feels like an extra step, but it’s actually a shortcut. It saves time, prevents frustration, and ensures your cuts are perfect the first time—which is crucial when you have a limited amount of material.
Navigating the Slide-Out Installation
The slide-out is often the most intimidating part of the job. The key is to understand how the floor moves and make sure your new material doesn't bind, snag, or get chewed up. Remember where you cut the old carpet? Right along the inside edge of the slide room. Your new flooring will go right up to that same line.
Most importantly, you have to deal with the height difference. Many RVs have a ramped or flush-floor slide, and your new flooring needs to transition smoothly. This is where special slide-out trim or "ski strips" come in. These are low-profile plastic or metal strips that create a gentle ramp for the slide to glide over, protecting the edge of your beautiful new floor.
While you're working on the slide-out, it's the perfect time to give the seals a good inspection. A damaged seal can let in water, which will ruin all your hard work in a hurry. You can learn more about how to replace RV slide-out seals in our detailed article.
The whole process is a multi-stage effort, starting with clearing the space and ending with a clean subfloor ready for its new look.
This just goes to show that a successful installation is built on a foundation of solid prep work, long before the new flooring even comes out of the box.
Wrapping RV Stairs for a Professional Finish
RV stairs take a serious beating, so durability is everything. Whether you're using carpet tiles or a single piece of carpet, the technique for getting a clean, tight wrap—often called the "waterfall" method—is the same.
- Start at the Top: Cut a piece of carpet wide enough for the stair and long enough to cover the top tread and the vertical riser below it in one continuous piece.
- Apply Adhesive: Spread your pressure-sensitive adhesive on both the tread (the flat part you step on) and the riser (the vertical part).
- Secure the Tread: Press the carpet firmly onto the top tread, making sure it’s completely smooth.
- Wrap the Nose: Pull the carpet taut over the "nose," or edge, of the stair. Use a staple gun to pop a few staples discreetly right underneath the nose. This holds it securely in place.
- Press onto the Riser: Smooth the carpet down the riser, pressing it firmly into the adhesive.
- Repeat for the Next Step: You'll start a new piece of carpet for the next step down, overlapping it just a bit in the inside corner where the riser meets the next tread.
This method gives you a durable, seamless look that holds up to heavy foot traffic. Using staples under the nose is a pro trick that prevents the carpet from ever pulling away or creating a trip hazard. It’s small details like this that make your replacing carpet in an RV project look like it was done by an expert.
Applying Adhesive and Trimming Edges
When you're finally ready to glue everything down, work in small, manageable sections. Don't slather adhesive over the entire floor at once. Apply it evenly with a notched trowel, and pay close attention to the manufacturer's instructions for "open time"—that's how long you need to let the glue get tacky before laying the flooring.
Once a piece is down, use a floor roller (or even just a kitchen rolling pin in a pinch) to press it firmly into the adhesive. Work from the center out to push out any air bubbles.
For those final cuts along the walls, either use your template or press the flooring right into the edge and slice it with a sharp utility knife held at a slight angle. This gives you a snug, perfect fit and creates those clean, professional-looking lines that make all the difference.
Adding Professional Finishes and Solving Common Issues
Alright, the hard part is over—the new carpet is down. Now it’s time for the details that take a project from looking "DIY" to looking like a pro did it. We're talking about trim and transition pieces.
These little strips do more than just look good. They’re critical for protecting the edges of your new floor from getting frayed and beat up, and they create a safe, smooth walkway between different flooring types. This is especially true where your new carpet bumps up against the vinyl in the kitchen or bathroom.
When you're picking out a transition strip, pay close attention to the height difference between the floors. A simple T-molding is perfect if the floors are the same height. If one is higher, you'll need a reducer strip to create a nice, gentle ramp. Make sure you secure them well; some click into a metal track, while others get glued or screwed right to the subfloor.
Troubleshooting Common Installation Hiccups
No matter how many times you do this, little things can still go sideways. The trick isn't to be perfect—it's knowing how to fix the small mistakes before they turn into big headaches. Here are a few common issues I've run into and how to handle them.
The Dreaded Mis-Cut
You measured twice, cut once… and it’s still a hair too short. We’ve all been there. Don’t panic! If the gap is tiny (less than a quarter-inch), your baseboard or shoe molding will probably hide it completely. If it’s a bit wider, you can often run a bead of color-matched caulk along the edge to make the gap disappear before you put the trim back on.
Bubbles and Bumps
You step back to admire your work and spot a bubble staring back at you. This is usually from the adhesive not grabbing properly or the carpet not being stretched quite enough. If you used a pressure-sensitive glue that’s still tacky, grab a heavy floor roller and try to work the bubble toward the nearest wall. For a really stubborn spot, you can use a carpet syringe to inject a tiny bit of adhesive right under the bubble, then weigh it down with a toolbox or some books until it sets.
A classic rookie mistake is globbing on too much adhesive, thinking more is better. It's not. Too much glue can keep it from getting tacky, which causes the flooring to slide around or bubble up. Always stick to the manufacturer's directions for the right trowel size and spread rate.
Fixing Pesky Seams and Gaps
Getting two pieces of carpet to meet so perfectly that the seam vanishes is a real art. If you have a seam that just won’t stay down, it’s almost always because you didn't get enough adhesive right at the very edge. Gently lift the edge, apply a thin line of seam sealer or a little extra adhesive with a small brush, then press it down and park something heavy on it until it cures.
Here are a few other quick fixes I’ve used over the years:
- Frayed Edges: After a cut, if you see an edge starting to unravel, just run a thin bead of seam sealer along it. It acts like glue for the fibers and stops the fraying in its tracks.
- Small Gouges: Dropped a utility knife and put a nick in your brand-new floor? If you used carpet tiles, this is an easy fix—just swap out the damaged tile. For a single sheet of carpet, you can usually perform a little surgery with a leftover scrap to create a nearly invisible patch.
- Gaps Around Obstacles: Cutting around pipes or cabinet bases can be tricky. If you end up with a small gap, some flexible quarter-round molding or a bit of color-matched caulk will hide that imperfection like it never happened.
Budgeting for Your Project: DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
Alright, let’s talk dollars and cents. One of the first big questions you'll have is whether to tackle this project yourself or call in a professional. Honestly, the answer really boils down to a trade-off between your time, your confidence in your skills, and what your wallet can handle.
Going the DIY route can save you a serious amount of cash, but you've got to budget for all the little pieces. Your main expenses will be the flooring itself, the right kind of adhesive, and any tools you don't already own, like a good staple remover or a floor scraper. Don't forget the small stuff that always seems to add up—fresh blades for your utility knife, some wood filler for subfloor dings, and the trim pieces that give you that clean, finished look.
Breaking Down the DIY Costs
Your DIY budget can swing quite a bit, depending on the size of your rig and how fancy you get with materials. For a smaller RV, you can probably get away with spending $300-$700 for mid-range carpet tiles or vinyl plank, plus all the necessary supplies.
For instance, let's imagine you're re-flooring a 25-foot travel trailer:
- Flooring: 150 sq. ft. of LVP at $2.50/sq. ft. = $375
- Adhesive: 1 gallon of pressure-sensitive glue = $50
- Supplies: Blades, caulk, transition strips = $75
- Total Estimated DIY Cost: Around $500
That’s a whole different ballgame compared to a professional installation, where the cost of labor is the biggest chunk of the bill. Cutting flooring perfectly around an RV's quirky furniture, slide-outs, and cockpit areas takes a lot of time and specialized skill.
The real win with a DIY project is your own labor. You're trading your weekends and some elbow grease for what could be thousands of dollars in installation fees. For any budget-conscious RVer, that's a pretty tempting deal.
The Cost of Hiring a Professional
Hiring a pro gets you a polished, perfect result without you breaking a sweat, but that convenience comes with a premium price tag. Depending on where you live, a professional RV carpet replacement can run anywhere from $2,000 to $3,000. Some dealerships even charge up to $250 per hour for this kind of specialty work.
When you look at it that way, the savings from doing it yourself are massive. I've heard of owners who replaced a small bedroom carpet for less than $60. If you want to dive deeper into these costs, you can get a good breakdown of RV carpet replacement costs on coachspecialists.com.
To give you a clearer picture, here’s a rough comparison for that same 25-foot RV we talked about earlier.
DIY vs Pro Installation Cost Comparison (Sample 25-Foot RV)
| Expense Item | Estimated DIY Cost | Estimated Professional Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Flooring Materials (150 sq. ft.) | $375 | $375 – $500 |
| Adhesive & Supplies | $125 | $150 |
| Tools (Purchase/Rental) | $50 – $100 | Included |
| Labor | $0 (Your time) | $1,500 – $2,500 |
| Cleanup & Disposal | $25 | Included |
| Total Estimated Cost | $575 – $625 | $2,025 – $3,150 |
At the end of the day, the choice is yours. A DIY project can save you a ton of money if you have the patience and the time to do it right. On the other hand, hiring a pro gives you peace of mind and a guaranteed high-quality finish without the headache.
Got Questions About Replacing RV Carpet?
Even with a solid plan, you're bound to run into a few head-scratchers when tearing out old RV carpet. I've been there. Let's tackle some of the most common questions that pop up during this project so you can finish the job like a pro.
What’s the Best Type of Flooring to Replace Carpet in an RV?
The "best" floor really comes down to how you use your RV. There’s no single right answer, but there are definitely some better choices.
If you love the warmth and quiet that carpet provides, I'd strongly suggest looking at carpet tiles. They're a game-changer compared to dealing with a massive roll of carpet. You can cut and fit them into an RV's weird corners so much easier, and if you spill something nasty, you just pull up that one tile and replace it. Easy.
For most RVers, though, Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) is the undisputed champion. It's tough as nails, shrugs off water like it's nothing, and is a breeze to clean—perfect for pets, kids, and muddy hiking boots. Critically, it's also lightweight and handles the wild temperature swings in an RV without warping or cracking. Stay away from heavy stuff like ceramic tile or moisture-sensitive flooring like solid hardwood. They just can't handle the constant vibration and humidity changes of life on the road.
How Do You Handle the Carpet Under the RV Slide-Out?
Ah, the dreaded slide-out carpet. This is the part that intimidates everyone, but it’s simpler than it looks. The big secret? You usually don't have to replace the carpet that stays hidden under the slide when it's closed.
Grab a fresh, sharp blade for your utility knife and carefully cut the old carpet right along the inside edge of the slide-out room. A clean, straight line is what you're aiming for. Then, install your new LVP or carpet tiles right up to that cut line.
To finish it off and make it look clean, you'll cover that seam with a special slide-out trim piece, sometimes called a "ski strip." This little piece of trim is crucial—it protects the edge of your new floor and lets the slide glide over it smoothly without catching or tearing anything.
Don't overthink the slide-out. The real trick is getting a neat, straight cut where the new floor meets the old, hidden carpet. The right transition trim makes the whole thing look intentional and protects your new floor.
Do I Need a Special Adhesive for My RV Flooring?
Yes, absolutely. This is not the place to cut corners. Your RV is basically a small earthquake on wheels, rattling and vibrating down the highway while going from freezing cold to baking hot. Standard household flooring glue just can't take that kind of abuse.
Regular glue will get brittle and fail, leaving you with peeling seams and annoying bubbles under your floor. You need a high-quality, pressure-sensitive adhesive formulated for these exact conditions. This type of glue stays flexible, allowing the floor to expand, contract, and move with the RV.
Always double-check the flooring manufacturer’s specs to make sure the adhesive is compatible with both your flooring material and the RV’s plywood subfloor. It might cost a few extra bucks, but it’s the only way to prevent a massive headache later on.
For all your flooring project needs, from the right adhesives to the essential tools that make the job easier, RVupgrades.com has you covered. Explore our vast selection of RV parts and accessories to get everything you need for this and any other upgrade at https://www.rvupgradestore.com.
