Before you pull out a single leveling block, let’s talk about why this is such a critical step. Getting your travel trailer level is about way more than just comfort or keeping your coffee mug from sliding off the counter. A properly leveled trailer protects your RV’s systems and structure from damage.
Getting it wrong isn’t just a minor headache; it can actively harm your RV’s most important appliances and put stress on its frame. We’re not chasing absolute perfection here, but we are trying to protect our investment and make sure everything inside works the way it was designed to.
Why a Level Trailer Is Not Just About Comfort
Think about your RV’s refrigerator. If you have an absorption-style fridge (which most RVs do), being off-level by just a few degrees can prevent the ammonia-based coolant from circulating properly. This stops the cooling cycle in its tracks. Over time, this doesn’t just mean warm food; it can cause the cooling unit to overheat and fail, leading to permanent, expensive damage.
The Hidden Problems of an Unlevel Rig
Beyond the fridge, the problems that pop up from an unlevel trailer can be a real drag on your camping trip. These little annoyances add up fast.
Here are a few common issues RVers face:
- Rogue Doors: Interior and exterior doors might swing open when you don’t want them to or refuse to latch shut. This is a constant nuisance and a potential security issue.
- Lying Tank Sensors: When your rig is tilted, your holding tank sensors give you false readings. You’re left completely guessing how much fresh water you have left or when you need to dump the gray and black tanks.
- Bad Drainage: Water doesn’t flow uphill. In an unlevel trailer, sinks and showers won’t drain properly, leaving you with pooling water and slow drains.
But here’s the big one: an unlevel trailer puts constant, uneven strain on the entire structure. This twisting force on the chassis can eventually lead to serious frame damage, warped slide-outs, and misaligned doors and windows. These are the kinds of repairs that nobody wants to pay for.
Understanding the Two Leveling Planes
The secret to a quick, frustration-free setup is tackling the two leveling planes in the right order. I can’t stress this enough.
You have to get the side-to-side level first, while the trailer is still hitched up to your tow vehicle. Once that’s done, then you can unhitch and handle the front-to-back level using your tongue jack. Getting this order right is the golden rule of leveling. For a complete rundown on campsite setup, this essential RV setup checklist is a great resource.
As more and more people hit the road, the demand for gear that makes camping safer and more comfortable has exploded. In fact, the travel trailer industry in North America is projected to grow from USD 28.6 billion in 2025 to a massive USD 57.3 billion by 2035. That’s a lot of people needing to get their rigs level.
Building Your Essential Leveling Toolkit
There’s nothing worse than pulling into a campsite, ready to relax, only to find out you’re missing a critical piece of gear. Turning a simple setup into a major headache is no way to start a trip. Putting together a solid leveling toolkit isn’t just about having the basic stuff; it’s about having the right tools for the real-world situations you’ll find yourself in.
First things first, you need to know how you’ll measure “level.” A simple, trusty bubble level placed on the floor just inside your trailer door is a reliable, battery-free option. On the other hand, smartphone apps can get you in the ballpark. For a more high-tech approach, a system like EZ LEVEL is a game-changer. It uses Bluetooth to tell your phone exactly which side of the RV needs to be raised, saving you from jumping in and out of your truck a dozen times.
Levels and Blocks: The Foundation of Your Kit
Once you know which side is low, you need a way to lift it. This is where your blocks and chocks come into play. You could certainly use treated wood planks—and many people do—but they’re heavy, can hold onto moisture, and have a nasty habit of splitting under pressure over time.
Most experienced RVers I know have moved on to one of two modern solutions:
- Interlocking Leveling Blocks: These are the stackable plastic blocks that are lightweight and incredibly versatile. You can build them into a small pyramid or a ramp, making them super adaptable to different heights and stable on uneven ground.
- Curved Ramps: Products like the Andersen Levelers take a different approach. You just place the curved ramp under the tire on the low side and drive forward until your level (or app) says you’re good. Then, you slide a chock underneath. They offer really precise, tiny adjustments without any guesswork.
The real secret is understanding the limits of your gear. Curved ramps are fast and precise, but they might not give you enough lift on a severely sloped site. Stackable blocks can get you more height, but it takes a bit more trial and error to get the stack just right. Honestly, a lot of seasoned RVers (myself included) carry both to be ready for whatever the campsite throws at us.
To help you decide, here’s a quick breakdown of the most common tools you’ll see out there.
Comparing Common Travel Trailer Leveling Tools
This table compares common tools for leveling a travel trailer, highlighting their pros, cons, and best-use scenarios to help you choose the right gear for your needs.
| Tool | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Interlocking Blocks | Lightweight, versatile, high lift potential, stable on soft ground. | Can be time-consuming to stack, requires trial and error. | Severely unlevel sites and RVers who want maximum flexibility. |
| Curved Ramps | Fast setup, extremely precise height adjustment, easy to use. | Limited lift height, can slip on some surfaces. | Sites that are only slightly off-level and need quick, precise adjustments. |
| Bubble Level | Inexpensive, reliable, no batteries needed, simple to use. | Requires you to be inside the trailer to check the level. | A no-fuss, essential tool for every RVer as a primary or backup level. |
| Leveling App/System | Highly accurate, provides exact height needed, check from your tow vehicle. | Can be expensive, requires a smartphone and battery power. | Tech-savvy RVers who want to save time and get perfectly level on the first try. |
Ultimately, the best tools are the ones that fit your camping style and budget. Many RVers start with basic blocks and a bubble level and add more advanced gear over time.
Chocks and Pads: The Non-Negotiables
No toolkit is truly complete without two items I consider non-negotiable for safety. First, a set of heavy-duty wheel chocks is absolutely essential. Remember, your stabilizer jacks and even X-Chocks are not designed to stop your trailer from rolling—they are only for stability. Your wheel chocks are your primary brakes once you’re unhitched. To make sure you have the right wheel chocks, you can explore a comprehensive collection of wheel chocks and stops for reliable options.
Finally, jack pads or even simple wood blocks are crucial. You need to place these under your tongue jack and stabilizer feet to keep them from sinking into soft ground like mud, sand, or even hot asphalt on a summer day. This simple step protects your equipment and makes sure your setup stays solid and stable for your entire stay. A well-stocked toolkit gives you the confidence to handle any campsite with ease.
Nailing Side-to-Side Leveling Before You Unhitch
The very first, and most critical, step in your setup routine happens before the trailer ever leaves your tow vehicle. Getting the side-to-side level right from the get-go makes everything that follows incredibly simple. This whole process kicks off the moment you pull into your campsite.
Before you do anything else, just take a minute to survey the spot. Is one area flatter than another? Parking on the most level ground you can find will seriously cut down on the work you have to do, and sometimes, you might get lucky and not need any blocks at all.
Identifying the Low Side
Once you’ve got your trailer where you want it, it’s time to figure out which side needs a lift. Grab whatever level you’re using—a simple bubble level, a smartphone app, or a slick system like EZ LEVEL and place it on a solid surface inside. The floor just inside the door or a countertop usually works great.
The bubble will lean toward the high side, telling you exactly which side is low. A common rookie mistake is to just eyeball it. Don’t do it. A few minutes with a level now will save you a ton of frustration later. A precise measurement is your best friend for getting this right on the first try.
Placing Blocks and Driving Up
With the low side identified, you’ll place your leveling blocks or ramp directly in front of or behind the tire (or tires) on that side. If you’re using stackable blocks, build them into a small, sturdy pyramid. For a curved ramp, just place it flush against the tire.
Here’s a tip from years of doing this: use a spotter. It is a massive help to have someone outside watching the tire and the level. They can give you clear hand signals to stop, which keeps you from overshooting the sweet spot and having to back up to try again.
Ease onto the blocks with small, deliberate movements. Creep forward slowly until your spotter—or your leveling system’s app—gives you the thumbs-up that the trailer is perfectly level side to side. Then, set your tow vehicle’s parking brake firmly before you even think about getting out to double-check.
This visual flow shows the core components you’ll use for this process, starting with your level to identify the issue, then using blocks and chocks to secure your rig.
The sequence is simple but absolutely essential: assess with your level, correct with blocks, and secure with chocks.
Securing Your Position
Once you’re perfectly level side-to-side, the next step is non-negotiable for safety. Before you even think about unhitching, you must chock your wheels. Place heavy-duty wheel chocks snugly against the tires on the side that is still on the ground. This prevents any chance of the trailer rolling while you unhitch.
Remember, stabilizer jacks and X-Chocks are for stability, not for stopping your trailer from rolling. Only your wheel chocks can safely hold your trailer in place. This is the single most important safety step in the entire leveling process.
The explosion in RVing’s popularity has brought a ton of new leveling technology with it. The global RV leveling sensor market was valued at around USD 610 million in 2024 and is expected to keep climbing. This just goes to show how important precision and safety have become for modern RV owners. You can check out more insights on this market growth over at Dataintelo.com.
Perfecting Front-to-Back Leveling and Stability
Alright, you’ve tackled the tricky part. Your trailer is now perfectly balanced from side to side and the wheel chocks are locked down tight. Now we can dial in the final axis. This is the last major step, and honestly, it’s the easiest part of the whole process.
Getting the front-to-back level is all about the tongue jack. With your wheel chocks keeping everything from rolling, you can safely unhitch from your tow vehicle.
Once you’re unhooked, grab your level again. I always place mine right on the floor just inside the entry door. In my experience, this spot gives you the truest reading of the trailer’s frame.
Fine-Tuning with the Tongue Jack
Now for the simple part. Just use your electric or manual tongue jack to raise or lower the front of the trailer. Keep an eye on the bubble on your level as you make small adjustments. A tiny tweak can make a big difference, so go slow until that bubble is sitting perfectly centered between the lines.
Once you’ve hit that sweet spot, your trailer is officially level. But we’re not quite done. The final step is what separates a shaky, bouncy campsite from a rock-solid one, and it’s where a lot of new RVers make a critical mistake. It’s time to put down the stabilizer jacks.
Deploying Stabilizer Jacks the Right Way
This is a point I can’t stress enough: stabilizer jacks are for stability, not for leveling. Their only job is to snug up against the ground to get rid of that annoying bounce and sway you feel when walking around inside. They were never designed to lift any of the trailer’s weight.
Trying to lift your rig with these jacks is a recipe for disaster. You can bend the jack legs, damage their mounting points, or even put a dangerous twisting force on your trailer’s frame. Trust me, that’s a costly repair you want to avoid.
To get them down correctly, just follow these simple steps:
- Use Jack Pads: Always, and I mean always, place a jack pad or a sturdy block of wood under each jack foot. This is non-negotiable. It stops them from sinking into soft ground like dirt, sand, or hot asphalt.
- Lower Until Snug: Whether you’re using a hand crank or a power drill, lower each jack until it makes firm contact with the pad. You’re not trying to lift anything; you’re just looking for enough pressure to take the jiggle out of the suspension.
- Keep Pressure Even: Walk around and give each jack a quick check to ensure they all have roughly the same amount of pressure. A firm, snug fit is all you need—don’t go crazy cranking down on them.
By following this simple routine, you ensure everything inside your RV works as it should, your doors don’t swing open on their own, and your entire rig feels as stable as a house. You’ve successfully gone from a wobbly trailer to a solid, comfortable home base for all your adventures.
Troubleshooting Common Leveling Challenges
Sooner or later, you’re going to pull into a spot that seems designed to test your patience. No campsite is perfectly flat, but some are so bad they make you rethink your entire setup process. This is where you really learn the ropes and build confidence.
These are the moments that separate a smooth, routine setup from a frustrating afternoon. Whether you’re dealing with soft ground that wants to swallow your jack or a slope that mocks your entire stack of leveling blocks, there’s almost always a solution. It just comes down to knowing the workarounds seasoned RVers have been using for years.
Handling Severely Sloped Campsites
We’ve all been there. You pull in, and it’s obvious one side of the trailer is way lower than the other. You might even use every single block you own and still see the bubble sitting off-center. This is a classic headache, especially in older state parks or more rustic campgrounds where “level” is a loose suggestion.
When you’ve run out of blocks, you need to get creative—but you absolutely have to stay safe.
- Dig Out the High Side: Instead of trying to keep building up the low side, sometimes it’s easier to bring the high side down. If you’re on dirt or gravel, grab a small shovel and dig a shallow trench for the high-side tires. Just letting them settle in an inch or two can make a huge difference.
- Reposition the Trailer: Before you commit to a major leveling operation, try moving the rig. Pulling forward or backing up just a few feet can sometimes change the angle dramatically and make your life a whole lot easier.
The goal isn’t just to get the bubble in the middle; it’s to create a stable, safe platform. If your stack of blocks looks like a wobbly Jenga tower, it probably is. Never, ever sacrifice safety for a perfectly level trailer.
Dealing With Soft or Unstable Ground
Pulling onto a gorgeous, grassy site feels great—until your tongue jack and stabilizers start sinking into the earth. The same thing can happen on a scorching summer day when that blacktop gets soft enough to give way under a few thousand pounds of pressure.
This is where jack pads are a non-negotiable part of your kit. They’re just wide, flat supports that distribute the weight over a bigger area, keeping your gear from sinking. If you don’t have dedicated pads, a solid piece of scrap lumber (like a 2×10) works just as well. It’s a small step that protects your equipment and makes sure you stay level for your entire trip.
Are Automatic Leveling Systems Worth It?
For many RVers, the ultimate fix for all these headaches is an automatic leveling system. You push a button, and a set of hydraulic or electric jacks deploys, adjusting automatically until your rig is perfectly level. The convenience is undeniable, especially if you move sites often or have physical limitations that make the manual process tough.
But they’re not for everyone. These systems add significant cost and weight to a travel trailer. While they’re becoming more common, whether it’s a worthwhile upgrade really depends on your travel style. North America is a huge market for these systems, which makes sense given the RVing culture here. The region actually accounted for 59.52% of global RV sales in 2024, which is driving demand for both factory-installed and aftermarket systems. You can check out more data on the vehicle leveling system market to see the trends for yourself.
For the weekend warrior or casual camper, a good set of blocks and a solid technique are usually more than enough to handle just about any campsite you’ll encounter.
Your Travel Trailer Leveling Questions Answered
Even after you think you’ve got the process down, questions always seem to pop up right when you’re at the campsite. I get it. Here are some quick, no-nonsense answers to the most common questions I hear from fellow RVers about getting their travel trailer perfectly level and stable.
Can I Use My Stabilizer Jacks to Level My Travel Trailer?
Let me be crystal clear on this one: absolutely not. If you remember only one thing from this guide, make it this.
Stabilizer jacks are only designed to prevent the trailer from bouncing and swaying after it’s already level. They aren’t built to lift the weight of your rig.
Trying to lift your trailer with them is a fast track to bent jacks, damaged mounting points on your frame, and some seriously dangerous twisting stress on the entire structure. Trust me, it’s a costly repair that is completely avoidable. Level first, then stabilize. Always.
What Is the Best Type of Level to Use?
Honestly, the “best” level really comes down to personal preference and how much you want to spend. A simple 2-foot carpenter’s bubble level sitting on the floor is foolproof, cheap, and never needs batteries. It’s a classic for a reason and gets the job done.
That said, a lot of RVers these days (myself included) swear by electronic systems like the Camco EZ LEVEL . This system uses a smartphone app to tell you exactly when each side of the RV is level. It completely eliminates the guesswork and saves you from hopping in and out of your truck a dozen times to check your progress.
The real win with an electronic system is speed and precision. Knowing you need to raise the left side of the camper before you even start grabbing blocks is a game-changer. It makes the whole process so much faster.
How Many Leveling Blocks Do I Actually Need?
This is something you get a feel for over time, but a good starting point for almost anyone is a set of 10 interlocking blocks. That’s usually enough for the vast majority of campsites you’ll encounter.
Here’s a handy trick I’ve used for years: use your bubble level to estimate the height you need. For every half-bubble your level is off-center, you’ll need roughly one inch of blocks. It’s a surprisingly accurate method.
Of course, ramp-style levelers, like the ones from Andersen or Beech Lane, make it even simpler. You just drive up the ramp until your level—or your app—gives you the green light.
Does My Trailer Need to Be Perfectly Level?
While “perfect” is always the goal, “very close” is what really matters for both function and comfort. The single most critical reason for getting it level is your RV refrigerator, assuming it’s an absorption-style fridge.
These refrigerators have to be within about 3 degrees of level side-to-side and 6 degrees front-to-back to work right. Running one way off-level can cause permanent damage to the cooling unit, and that’s an expensive fix.
Beyond the fridge, being level just makes life better. Your sinks and shower will drain properly, you won’t feel like you’re walking uphill to get to the bathroom, and you won’t wake up with a headache from sleeping at an angle. My advice? Get that bubble as close to the center as you possibly can.
For all the leveling blocks, wheel chocks, and high-tech leveling systems you need to make every setup a breeze, check out the huge selection at RVupgrades.com. Find top brands and expert advice at https://www.rvupgradestore.com.
