Knowing how to dewinterize your RV is about more than just flushing out some pink antifreeze. It’s a full-system wake-up call to make sure every critical component—from plumbing and electrical to propane and safety gear—is ready for a safe and trouble-free camping season.
Gathering Your Essential Dewinterization Tools
Before you start turning valves or flipping switches, getting organized is the key to a smooth process. A simple dewinterization job can grind to a halt because of a missing wrench or the right sealant, turning a productive afternoon into a frustrating day of running to the hardware store.
Think of it like setting up your workshop before a project. By laying out all your tools and supplies first, you can move methodically from one system to the next without breaking your stride. This simple prep work is the biggest thing separating an efficient job from a frustrating one.
Here’s a practical rundown of the gear to have on hand before you start.
Your RV Dewinterization Tools and Supplies
| Tool or Supply | System Category | Purpose and Pro Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Adjustable Wrench & Socket Set | Plumbing | You'll absolutely need this for the water heater drain plug or anode rod. Pro Tip: Keep a 1-1/16" socket handy, as it's the standard size for most Suburban anode rods. |
| Screwdriver Set | General Maintenance | Essential for removing access panels, checking battery terminals, and inspecting appliance compartments. A powered driver saves a ton of time. |
| Headlamp | All Systems | Low-point drains and water heater bypass valves are always in the darkest, most awkward spots. A hands-free headlamp is a game-changer. |
| Safety Glasses & Gloves | Safety | Non-negotiable. You'll want them when cleaning battery terminals or handling sanitizing chemicals. |
| Thread Seal Tape | Plumbing | For creating a leak-proof seal on your water heater's drain plug. Pro Tip: Always use a fresh wrap; old tape is a common cause of slow drips. |
| RV Water System Sanitizer | Plumbing | Can be household bleach or a dedicated, taste-free RV solution. I prefer dedicated RV sanitizers to avoid any lingering chlorine smell, which can be hard to flush out. You can find options under RV water system sanitizers. |
| RV Lap Sealant & Silicone | Exterior Seals | Needed for touching up any cracks on the roof (self-leveling lap sealant) or around windows and seams (silicone). A quick inspection now saves you from a leak later. See our selection of lap sealants and sealers. |
Most of what you need is probably already in your RV toolkit or garage. But there are a few specialty items that are non-negotiable for doing the job right.
Beyond the wrenches and screwdrivers, you’ll need specific supplies to get your RV's systems properly serviced and sealed. Having these on deck prevents delays and is your best bet for a leak-free start to the season.
One of the most common mistakes is people reusing old thread seal tape on the water heater plug. This little roll of tape costs next to nothing, but it's your best defense against a slow, nagging leak. Don't skip it—start fresh every time.
You'll also need a water system sanitizer and some RV-specific sealants for your exterior checks. If you want a comprehensive list to work from, this complete RV maintenance checklist is a great way to make sure you haven't missed a single item. Having everything laid out and ready to go is how the pros tackle any RV project.
Reviving Your RV Water System The Right Way
After a long winter's nap, your RV’s water system is the first thing that needs a proper wake-up call. This isn't just about flipping a switch to get water flowing again; it's about being methodical to make sure the water you'll be drinking, cooking with, and showering in is clean, safe, and doesn't have that funky chemical aftertaste. A careful approach here protects both your family's health and your RV’s delicate plumbing.
The main event is flushing out every single drop of that pink RV antifreeze that protected your pipes. A common mistake is to stop flushing as soon as the water looks clear, but antifreeze residue can cling to the inside of the lines.
This process can be broken down into a few key areas, and you absolutely have to start with the plumbing before touching anything else.
As you can see, getting the water system right is the foundation. Only then should you move on to the electrical and exterior checks.
Reconnecting Your Water Heater
First things first: before you introduce fresh water, you have to take your water heater out of bypass mode. When you winterized, you turned a valve (or a few) to keep antifreeze from filling up the tank. Now, it's time to undo that.
You'll need to find the back of your water heater, which is usually accessible from inside the rig—often tucked away behind a panel or under a cabinet. You should see a setup of valves on the water lines.
- Close the bypass valve: This is the one on the short pipe that connects the hot and cold lines.
- Open the hot and cold valves: Make sure the valves on the lines going into and coming out of the tank are fully open.
Forgetting this step is a classic mistake. If you start flushing with the heater still bypassed, you'll clear the main lines just fine but will be scratching your head later wondering why you don't have any hot water. More importantly, you won't be able to sanitize the tank itself.
Pro Tip: Before you turn on any water, double-check that your water heater’s drain plug or anode rod is screwed back in tightly. I always wrap the threads with a fresh layer of Teflon tape to guarantee a leak-free season. A loose plug is a recipe for a massive, wet mess inside your RV.
Flushing The Antifreeze From Every Line
With your water heater back in the loop, it's flushing time. You can either hook up to a city water connection with a potable water hose or use your onboard fresh water tank and pump. I personally prefer using the city connection for this part because it gives you consistent pressure and you don't have to worry about running your tank dry.
Now, go through your RV and open every single faucet, both hot and cold, one at a time. Let it run until the pink antifreeze is completely gone and the water is perfectly clear. Don't forget these spots people often miss:
- Kitchen and bathroom sinks
- Indoor and outdoor showers (if you have one)
- The toilet sprayer
- Low-point drains (let them run for a minute, too)
Be thorough here. Failing to flush properly can leave behind a nasty taste and potential health risks. To be safe, experts recommend flushing for an additional 1-2 minutes after the water runs clear. That leftover antifreeze loves to hide in the water heater tank, which holds 6-10 gallons, and around bypass valves.
Sanitizing for Safe Drinking Water
Once the pink is gone, you've reached the most critical step: sanitizing. This kills off any bacteria, mold, or algae that might have decided to make a home in your tank and lines over the winter. This is what makes your water safe to drink.
A simple diluted bleach solution is the tried-and-true method. The rule of thumb is one quarter-cup (2 oz) of regular household bleach for every 15 gallons of your fresh water tank's capacity. Don't just dump the bleach in straight! Mix it with a gallon of water first, pour that into your empty fresh water tank, and then fill the tank the rest of the way with clean water.
For a deeper dive into the best practices for tank cleaning, this practical guide on how to clean your water tank offers some great insights.
Next, turn on your water pump. Go to each faucet (hot and cold) and run it until you can smell the faint scent of bleach, then shut it off. This tells you the sanitizing solution has made it through the entire system. Now, let it sit. I recommend letting the solution sit for at least four hours, but overnight is even better to ensure a complete sanitization.
After it's had time to work, drain the entire system completely. Refill the fresh water tank with clean water, and then flush every faucet again until the bleach smell is totally gone. You might have to drain and refill the tank a couple of times to get rid of the smell, but it's worth the peace of mind.
For a detailed walkthrough on this part of the process, check out our complete guide on how to sanitize your RV fresh water tank properly. Taking your time on this final step is what guarantees you'll have fresh, clean water on your first trip of the season.
Inspecting Propane and Electrical Systems Safely
Alright, with your plumbing flushed and good to go, it's time to tackle the power sources. Your RV’s propane and electrical systems have been sitting dormant for months, and you don't want to rush this part. A methodical, safety-first inspection is absolutely essential before your first trip.
Rushing through these checks can lead to a dead battery at the campsite or, far worse, a dangerous gas leak. This process isn't complicated, but it does demand your full attention. We'll start with the heart of your 12V system—the batteries—and then move on to ensuring your propane system is leak-free and ready to fuel your adventures.
Assessing Your RV Battery Health
First things first, let's check on your RV batteries. If you removed them for the winter and kept them on a tender, you’re ahead of the game. If they stayed in the rig, they’ve likely lost a significant amount of charge. A huge percentage of springtime RV issues trace back to batteries that were neglected over the winter.
Grab a multimeter and test the voltage. You're looking for 12.6+ volts for a fully charged battery. A reading below 12.4V indicates a significant discharge and needs a long, slow charge. While you're at it, give your RV’s 30/50-amp shore power cord a quick look-over for any cracks or frays, especially near the plug ends.
Before you reconnect anything, clean those terminals. A simple wire brush and a paste made from baking soda and water will cut through any corrosion. When you’re ready to hook them back up, connect the positive (red) cable first, then the negative (black) cable. Make sure the connections are tight—a loose terminal can mimic a dead battery.
Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when handling batteries. Battery acid is corrosive, and a stray spark near a gassing battery is a serious hazard. Ensure your main battery disconnect switch is turned OFF before you start connecting or disconnecting anything.
Once they're connected, flip the battery disconnect switch to ON and let's see what works.
- Turn on some interior lights.
- Flip the switch for your water pump.
- Test any 12V fans or outlets.
If you get nothing, don't panic. The most common cause is either the battery disconnect switch itself or a tripped main fuse right near the battery bank. If you ever need to upgrade or replace that switch, you can find options under RV battery disconnect switches.
Verifying a Leak-Free Propane System
Next up: the propane system. This is where your nose and a little bit of soapy water become your most important tools. Even a tiny leak is a big deal, so take your time and be thorough.
Start by slowly opening the valve on your main propane tank. Listen carefully for any hissing sounds near the tank or the regulator—that's a dead giveaway for a major leak. If you smell that distinct rotten egg odor right away, shut the valve off immediately and find the source before doing anything else. For a deeper dive into how these parts work, check out our guide to understanding RV propane gas regulators.
Now, it's time for the tried-and-true leak detection method:
- Mix a 50/50 solution of dish soap and water in a spray bottle.
- Spray it all over the propane tank valve, the regulator, and every single fitting and connection you can get to.
- Watch closely for any bubbles forming. Even tiny, champagne-like bubbles mean you've got a gas leak.
If you find a leak, turn the gas off right away. Often, the fix is as simple as giving a fitting a little snug-up with a wrench. If that doesn't stop the bubbles, the connection might need to be resealed with gas-rated thread tape, or a hose might have finally given up and needs to be replaced. Never, ever use an appliance until you're 100% certain all leaks have been fixed.
Before we move on, let's put the key safety checks for these two critical systems into a simple table. It’s a great little reference to keep handy.
RV Systems Safety Check Quick Guide
Here’s a quick summary of the key checks for your electrical and propane systems. Running through these steps helps ensure everything is safe and ready for the season.
| System | What to Check | Passing Result |
|---|---|---|
| 12V Electrical | Battery voltage (using a multimeter) | 12.6V or higher for a full charge. |
| Battery terminals and connections | Clean, free of corrosion, and securely tightened. | |
| All 12V lights and appliances | Everything turns on and functions as expected. | |
| Propane | Connections at tank, regulator, and lines | No hissing sounds or smell of propane. |
| Soap and water test on all fittings | No bubbles form, indicating a leak-free seal. | |
| 120V Electrical | Shore power cord and plug | No cracks, frays, or damage to prongs. |
| Breaker panel | All breakers are in the ON position and not tripped. | |
| All outlets (using an outlet tester) | Tester shows correct wiring and power. |
Following this quick guide is a great way to build confidence that your rig’s core power systems are in good shape after a long winter's nap.
Testing Your 120V Electrical Circuits
Finally, let's check the big stuff. Go ahead and plug your RV into a proper shore power outlet. Once you're connected, head inside to your breaker panel. Flip on the main breaker first, and then turn on each of the individual circuit breakers one by one.
Now, systematically test everything that runs on 120V AC power. That means your microwave, air conditioner, television, and every single electrical outlet. I highly recommend using an outlet tester—it’s a small, cheap tool that you just plug in. It has lights that will instantly tell you if the outlet is wired correctly and getting power. This one little step confirms your entire AC system is working safely, all the way from the campground pedestal to your coffee maker.
Testing Your RV Appliances and Safety Devices
With your water, electrical, and propane systems back online, it’s time for the final systems check before you can officially declare your RV ready for camping season. Think of it as the final shakedown to make sure all your creature comforts and, more importantly, your safety gear, are good to go.
Skipping this part can lead to discovering the furnace won't kick on during a cold night at your first campsite. Spending a few extra minutes now saves a ton of frustration later. We'll run through each major appliance and then cover the gear that could literally save your life.
Firing Up the Main Appliances
Let's start with the comfort essentials. I like to go through them one by one, which helps purge any lingering air in the propane lines and confirms each one is working properly.
- Stovetop and Oven: The stovetop is always the easiest place to start. Turn on a burner; you'll likely hear it click a bit longer than usual as it pulls propane through. Once it lights, let it burn for a minute to get a nice, steady flame. Then, do the same for the other burners and the oven pilot light.
- Water Heater: Pop outside to the water heater compartment. First thing, check for any obstructions in the burner tube—critters love to build nests in there over the winter. Head back inside and flip the switch for the propane heater. You should hear the igniter start clicking. Don't be surprised if it takes two or three tries to light successfully; that's just air working its way out of the line.
- Furnace: Crank up the thermostat to get the furnace going. The fan will kick on first, followed by the click of the igniter and then the whoosh of the burner. Let it run for a few minutes. You'll probably smell burning dust, which is perfectly normal after a long storage period.
- Refrigerator: You'll want to test your fridge on both power sources. Start it in propane mode and listen for the flame to ignite. After that, switch it over to "Auto" or "AC" (while plugged into shore power, of course) to confirm it cools properly on electricity.
As you're waking everything up, it’s a good time to refresh your memory on general appliance fire prevention tips for a safe season.
Don't just flick an appliance on for a few seconds and call it good. Let the furnace and water heater run through a complete heating cycle. This is the only way to know for sure that their thermostats and safety shutoffs are working correctly before you're relying on them at a chilly campground.
A Non-Negotiable Safety Device Check
This is, without a doubt, the most important part of this whole process. Your detectors are your first line of defense against silent dangers, and they must be working before you spend a single night in your RV.
Here’s your life-saving checklist:
- Smoke Detector: Press and hold the "Test" button until you hear that loud, piercing alarm. If you only get a weak chirp, the battery is low. My rule is to replace the batteries every single spring, no matter what.
- Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector: Just like the smoke alarm, press the "Test" button and make sure it screams. CO is odorless and deadly, making this device absolutely mission-critical when you're using any propane appliance.
- LP Gas Detector: This one is usually mounted near the floor since propane is heavier than air. Hit the test button here, too. A functioning alarm means it's ready to warn you about any potential leaks.
One last, crucial step. Take each detector down and look for an expiration date printed on the back. Most of these devices have a lifespan of only 5-7 years. If any of yours are past their prime, replace them immediately. It's a small price to pay for peace of mind.
Completing a Full Exterior and Tire Inspection
With the inside systems humming along, it’s time to turn our attention outside. Winter can be surprisingly tough on an RV's exterior, and the only way to catch little problems before they turn into trip-ruining disasters is with a thorough walk-around. This isn't just about protecting your investment; it's about keeping you and your family safe on the road.
I always like to start at the top—the roof—and work my way down to the tires. This process is your first line of defense against the elements, so don't rush it. A little extra time spent here really pays off.
Starting with the Roof and Seals
Your first job is to safely get up on the roof. This is your rig’s main shield against water, and tiny cracks in sealant can lead to thousands of dollars in damage. You need to carefully inspect the seams around every single vent, skylight, antenna, and A/C unit.
The sealant should feel soft and flexible. If you spot any areas that are cracked, brittle, or pulling away from the surface, that's a leak waiting to happen. The fix is pretty straightforward: scrape away the old, damaged sealant, give the area a good cleaning with something like denatured alcohol, and then lay down a fresh bead of a quality self-leveling lap sealant.
Examining Sidewalls, Windows, and Awnings
Back on solid ground, take a slow, deliberate walk around your entire rig. Keep an eye on the sidewalls for any signs of delamination—those bubbles or waves in the fiberglass are often a dead giveaway that water has snuck in.
Pay close attention to all the seals around your windows and compartment doors.
- Look for any gaps or cracking in the rubber gaskets or silicone.
- Gently push on the corners of your windows. If there's any give, that's a red flag.
- Open up every single storage bay to make sure the latches work correctly and the seals are in good shape.
Next up, roll out your awnings completely. You're looking for any tears, holes, or mildew that might have cropped up over the winter. Just as important, test the mechanism to make sure it extends and retracts smoothly without any grinding or catching. When you’re ready to deep clean it, this guide on how to clean an RV awning breaks down the process step by step.
The Critical Tire Safety Check
Finally, we get to what I consider the most crucial part of any exterior inspection: the tires. Neglecting your tires is one of the biggest safety risks you can take. A blowout at highway speed can be absolutely devastating, causing a serious accident and catastrophic damage to your rig.
I break my tire inspection into a three-step process, and it’s vital to do this when the tires are cold—meaning the RV hasn't been driven for at least three hours.
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Check the Inflation Pressure: Grab a quality tire pressure gauge and check the PSI in every single tire, and don't forget the spare! Inflate them to the pressure recommended by the RV manufacturer, which you’ll find on a sticker, usually on the driver's side door jamb or the front-left corner of the RV. Do not use the pressure stamped on the tire's sidewall; that's the maximum pressure the tire can hold, not the right pressure for your specific rig's weight.
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Inspect for Damage and Dry Rot: Get down on your hands and knees for this. Look closely at the entire surface of each tire, especially the sidewalls. You're searching for cracks, cuts, bulges, or punctures. The most dangerous issue is dry rot, which looks like a web of tiny cracks in the rubber. If you see this, the tire's structure is compromised and it has to be replaced, no matter how much tread is left. Remember, tires over five years old have a much higher failure rate.
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Verify Lug Nut Torque: After sitting all winter, it's not uncommon for lug nuts to loosen up a bit. Use a proper torque wrench—never an impact gun—to confirm that every lug nut is tightened to the manufacturer's spec, which you can find in your owner's manual. This simple check is what keeps a wheel from flying off on the interstate.
I can't stress this enough: your tires are the only thing connecting your home-on-wheels to the pavement. Taking 20 minutes to perform these checks is the best safety investment you can make before your first trip of the season. It’s a non-negotiable step in any responsible dewinterization process.
Common Questions About Dewinterizing an RV
Even with the best checklist in hand, questions always come up when you’re in the middle of dewinterizing. After years of fielding calls and helping fellow RVers get their rigs ready for spring, I’ve noticed the same handful of issues tend to cause the most headaches.
This section is all about giving you clear, no-nonsense answers to those common problems. Think of it as a quick troubleshooting guide to save you a ton of guesswork and get you back on track.
What Happens If I Don't Get All The Antifreeze Out?
This is probably the number one question I get asked, and for good reason. The short answer is that leaving a tiny bit of non-toxic RV antifreeze in your water lines won’t hurt you, but it will absolutely make your water taste funky and foam up like you’ve got soap in the pipes.
More importantly, though, it’s a red flag that your system flush wasn't thorough enough. A complete flush is the only way to know for sure that you've cleared out any bacteria that might have started growing over the winter. My rule of thumb is to let each faucet run for a few minutes after the water looks clear, just to be positive everything is out. This also helps ensure appliances like your water heater can operate cleanly without any lingering residue.
Can I Dewinterize If It Might Still Freeze?
Ah, the classic RVer's dilemma: the days are getting warm, but the nights still have a bite to them. As tempting as it is to get a head start, my strong advice is to wait until the overnight temperatures are consistently staying above 32°F (0°C). It only takes one hard freeze to burst a pipe or crack a fitting if your lines are full of water.
If you’re absolutely set on an early-season trip, you have a couple of options.
- Do a "dry" dewinterization. You can go through every single step on the checklist—checking batteries, testing propane appliances, inspecting seals—except for actually adding water to the system.
- Dewinterize, camp, then re-winterize. For a quick weekend trip, you can fully dewinterize the RV, enjoy your getaway, and then do the whole winterization process again before you store it. It’s definitely more work, but it’s the only surefire way to camp early without risking thousands in plumbing damage.
If you’d like a slightly different step-by-step take on the process, you can also walk through our other full tutorial on how to dewinterize your RV.
My Battery Is Charged But Nothing 12V Works. What's Wrong?
This is a classic post-storage panic moment, but the fix is usually incredibly simple. Before you start thinking you have a major electrical gremlin, check these three things in this exact order.
- The Battery Disconnect Switch: This is the culprit 90% of the time. It’s a big red dial or switch, usually near the steps or in a storage bay, designed to stop the battery from draining in storage. It’s ridiculously easy to forget you turned it off months ago.
- The Main Fuse or Breaker: Look for a main fuse or a small breaker right near your battery bank. If it's blown or tripped, nothing downstream is going to get power.
- The Terminal Connections: A little bit of corrosion or a loose connection on the battery terminal is all it takes to kill the power. Make sure the cables are clean and tightened down so you can’t wiggle them by hand.
This is a perfect example of why a methodical approach is so important. Instead of jumping to the most complex conclusion, always start with the simplest and most common solution. The battery disconnect switch is the first place you should look for any 12V power issues after storage.
I Found Mouse Droppings. What Should I Inspect?
Finding evidence of pests is always a bummer, but a methodical inspection is critical for safety. Don’t just clean up the mess and call it a day; you need to go on a hunt for the damage they may have left behind.
Focus your inspection on these three key areas:
- Electrical Wires: Rodents seem to love chewing on wire insulation. Get a flashlight and check behind appliances, inside the converter bay, and all along the underbelly for any chewed or frayed wiring. This is a serious fire hazard that needs to be fixed immediately.
- Plumbing Lines: Look over all the visible PEX plumbing lines for any signs of chew marks. A tiny nick from a mouse's tooth can easily turn into a major leak once you pressurize the system with water.
- Appliance Vents: Check the intake and exhaust vents for your furnace and water heater. Pests love to build nests in these tubes, which can block airflow and create a dangerous carbon monoxide situation inside your RV.
After a deep cleaning and disinfection, your final mission is to find and seal every possible entry point. Use a combination of steel wool (which mice can't chew through) and expanding foam to close up any gaps or holes you find in the RV’s underbelly to keep them from coming back.
At RVupgrades.com, we know that having the right parts and accessories makes all the difference. From sealants and sanitizers to replacement anode rods and water filters, we have everything you need for a smooth dewinterization. Shop our huge selection of over 20,000 products to get your rig ready for the season.
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