If you want freedom and flexibility on your RV trips, finding the best tow bar for flat towing comes down to three things: a solid weight capacity, non-binding arms that make unhooking a breeze, and a track record of reliability. You’ll see names like Blue Ox, Roadmaster, and Demco pop up again and again for a reason—they build quality gear for everything from lightweight Jeeps to heavy-duty pickups.
Choosing the Right Tow Bar for Your RV Adventures
Think of a tow bar as the mission-critical link between your motorhome and your towed vehicle (what many of us call a "dinghy" or "toad"). It's more than just a piece of metal for convenience; it's a core component of your safety system. Investing in a good one means your vehicle will follow your RV smoothly, track correctly in turns, and stay locked in over thousands of miles of rough roads and highways.
It’s no surprise this travel style has become so popular. Flat towing has really taken off in the RV community, especially as towable RVs continue to lead the market. A reliable tow bar isn't just a nice-to-have, it's essential for a safe and stress-free adventure.
Understanding Key Tow Bar Types
In the world of tow bars, you'll find two main designs, but one has pretty much become the go-to standard for modern RVing.
- RV-Mounted (Self-Aligning): This is the one you see most often, and for good reason. The tow bar lives on the motorhome's hitch receiver and simply folds away when you're not using it. The magic is in the arms—they extend and lock into place as you pull forward, which makes hooking up incredibly fast and simple.
- Vehicle-Mounted (A-Frame): This is the old-school style. It attaches to the front of your toad and has to be completely removed and stored somewhere every time you want to drive the car. It works, but it’s a whole lot more hassle than the RV-mounted systems.
For almost everyone I talk to, the choice is clear.
A self-aligning, RV-mounted tow bar is the way to go for convenience, safety, and just plain ease of use. You're not wrestling with a heavy, bulky A-frame, and the connection process is so much simpler—a real game-changer if you travel solo or often find yourself on uneven campsites.
Because of this, we're going to focus on these modern, self-aligning systems. They really are the best tow bar for flat towing in just about every situation. If you're new to towing in general, it also doesn't hurt to brush up on some essential travel trailer towing tips to get a solid handle on safety before you hit the road.
Decoding Tow Bar Specifications That Actually Matter
Before you can pick the right tow bar, you need to know how to read the spec sheet. These numbers aren't just marketing fluff; they're the details that dictate safety, convenience, and whether a tow bar will even work with your setup. Getting this right from the start is the key to a stress-free trip.
Making sense of the specs means you can look past the brand names and focus on what really performs on the road. This is essential know-how for every RVer, whether you've been doing this for decades or you're just getting started.
Weight Capacity and Hitch Compatibility
The first and most important number to look at is the Gross Towing Weight (GTW) rating. This tells you the maximum weight the tow bar can safely handle. Your tow bar's GTW rating absolutely must be higher than your towed vehicle's actual curb weight—that’s its weight with a full tank of gas and all standard equipment.
Don't guess on your vehicle's weight. Look up the official curb weight and then be honest about any aftermarket parts you've added, like heavy-duty bumpers or cargo racks. I always suggest aiming for a tow bar with a capacity at least 1,000 to 2,000 pounds over your vehicle's total weight. That buffer is a crucial safety margin you'll be glad to have.
Next, you have to match the tow bar to your motorhome's hitch receiver. Most RVs use one of two standard sizes:
- 2-Inch Receiver: This is the workhorse you'll find on most Class C and many Class A motorhomes. They're typically good for towing up to 10,000 pounds.
- 2.5-Inch Receiver: Found on the big rigs—larger diesel pushers and Super C RVs—and built to handle the heavy loads well over 10,000 pounds.
Features That Solve Real-World Problems
Beyond the basic numbers, a few features make a massive difference in day-to-day use, especially when you pull into a campsite after a long day of driving.
One of the best innovations in recent years is non-binding arms. If you’ve ever parked on uneven ground, you know how standard tow bars can get "bound up" under tension. It can be incredibly frustrating trying to wrestle the connection pins free. Non-binding latches let you easily disconnect the arms, even if they're at an angle or under pressure, saving you from a common campground headache.
Think of non-binding arms as your get-out-of-jail-free card for unlevel campsites. Instead of having to fire up the rig and reposition everything just to release a stuck tow bar, you just press a lever and unhook. It's a single feature that turns a potentially stressful chore into a simple task.
Material and Storage Considerations
A tow bar's material affects its weight and how long it'll last. Steel is the traditional choice; it's strong and durable, but it's also heavy. Aluminum tow bars are much lighter, which makes them easier to handle and hook up, though you'll usually pay a bit more for the convenience.
Finally, think about how the tow bar stores when you're not using it. Most modern designs fold and lock to one side of the RV hitch, keeping them secure and out of the way. Some even offer a raised storage position to give you better ground clearance. How you plan to manage your various essential RV parts and accessories, including your tow bar, can definitely influence which model's storage design works best for you.
Comparing Top Tow Bars for Real-World RV Scenarios
Choosing the right tow bar isn’t about finding a single “best” model for everyone. It's about matching the right gear to your unique travel style. I've learned over the years that the needs of a full-time RVer putting 15,000 miles a year on their rig are worlds apart from a weekend camper who just needs something reliable for a few trips each summer.
What really matters is how these tow bars perform in real-world situations, like hooking up on a sloped campsite or just dealing with the daily grind of travel. That’s what separates a good purchase from a great one. Let’s break down some of the top models for two very different types of RVers.
The Full-Timer Hauling a Heavy Truck
If you're a full-timer, you live and breathe by your equipment's durability and reliability. When you're towing a heavier vehicle like a Ford F-150 or a Ram 1500 every single day, your tow bar has to be built for constant, heavy use. For this kind of demand, we'll look at two titans in the heavy-duty class: the Blue Ox Avail and the Demco Excali-Bar II.
Both of these are beasts, rated for a solid 10,000 pounds, which gives you a comfortable safety margin for full-size trucks and large SUVs. They’re both built from robust, all-steel construction designed to handle cross-country trips and rough roads. But they get the job done with slightly different approaches.
- Blue Ox Avail: This one is famous for its low-profile, non-binding latches. Trust me, these are a lifesaver on uneven terrain. The design lets you release the arms easily even when they’re under a lot of tension—a common headache in less-than-level RV parks.
- Demco Excali-Bar II: The standout feature here is the independent, self-supporting arms, which make hooking up a true one-person job. You can extend one arm, lock it in place, and then move to the other. No more fighting to align both arms at the same time.
For the full-timer, the choice often boils down to which daily frustration you’d rather eliminate.
If you find yourself in state parks or boondocking spots where level ground is a luxury, the Blue Ox Avail is your friend. Its non-binding latches will save you a ton of grief when it’s time to unhook.
On the other hand, the Demco Excali-Bar II really shines when you’re connecting. Those self-supporting arms are a huge help after a long day of driving when your patience is wearing thin.
The Weekend Warrior with a Jeep or SUV
For weekend adventurers towing a lighter vehicle like a Jeep Wrangler or a small SUV, the priorities shift a bit. Strength is still key, but ease of use, a lighter weight for easier handling, and overall value become just as important. In this category, we'll compare two of the most popular and trusted names out there: the Roadmaster Falcon 2 and the Blue Ox Ascent.
The Roadmaster Falcon 2 is a true workhorse. Rated for 6,000 pounds, it's a perfect match for the vast majority of popular towed vehicles and has a rock-solid reputation for being nearly indestructible.
The Blue Ox Ascent offers a bit more capacity at 7,500 pounds but is made from lightweight aircraft-grade aluminum. It weighs in at just 31 pounds, making it noticeably easier to handle than its all-steel rivals. This is a big plus for anyone who struggles with lifting heavier gear.
One of the main differences comes down to their release mechanisms. The Falcon 2 uses a simple, effective single-lever disconnect. One lever releases both arms, making the unhooking process fast and foolproof. It’s a time-tested design that people love for its simplicity.
The Ascent, however, uses the signature Blue Ox non-binding latches, just like its bigger brother, the Avail. This gives it the same fantastic advantage on uneven ground, allowing for a stress-free disconnect even when the tow bar is in a bind. It's a convenience feature that many RVers find they can't live without once they've tried it.
To get a quick idea of where your setup fits, this decision tree makes it simple.
As you can see, everything starts with your vehicle's weight. That one factor will point you toward either a light/medium-duty tow bar or a heavy-duty one.
Tow Bar Model Comparison for Common RV Setups
To make things even clearer, here’s a side-by-side look at how these top models stack up based on key specs and who they’re best suited for. This should help you pinpoint the perfect match for your travels.
| Model (Brand) | Max Tow Capacity (GTW) | Key Feature | Best For User Profile | Material |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blue Ox Avail | 10,000 lbs | Non-binding latches | Full-timers with heavy trucks, frequent unlevel sites | Steel |
| Demco Excali-Bar II | 10,000 lbs | Self-supporting arms | Solo RVers, anyone who values an easy hookup process | Steel |
| Roadmaster Falcon 2 | 6,000 lbs | Proven reliability, single-lever release | Weekend warriors, budget-conscious RVers | Steel |
| Blue Ox Ascent | 7,500 lbs | Lightweight aluminum, non-binding latches | RVers who prioritize ease of handling and unlevel unhooking | Aluminum |
At the end of the day, the best tow bar is the one that solves the specific challenges you face on the road. For the full-timer, the daily-use advantages of the Avail or Excali-Bar II are well worth the investment. For the weekend warrior, the balanced performance of the Falcon 2 or the lightweight convenience of the Ascent are both fantastic choices.
Essential Safety Systems for Your Towing Setup
Picking out the perfect tow bar is a huge milestone, but it's really just the starting point for a truly safe and road-ready flat-towing system. While the tow bar physically connects your RV and toad, a few other critical components work in concert to keep everything secure, legal, and under control. Think of them as the essential support crew that makes the whole operation possible.
Without these pieces in place, even the toughest, most expensive tow bar can't do its job right. From the custom-fit base plate that anchors everything to your toad's frame to the legally required supplemental braking system, getting these details right is non-negotiable for anyone who takes flat towing seriously.
The Unsung Hero: The Vehicle-Specific Base Plate
The tow bar usually gets all the glory, but if you ask me, the base plate is the real foundation of the entire setup. This is the custom-designed bracket that bolts directly to the frame of your towed vehicle, creating the solid attachment points your tow bar needs. It’s absolutely not a one-size-fits-all part; every single base plate is engineered for a specific vehicle make, model, and year.
This vehicle-specific design is what makes the system safe. It’s built to distribute the massive pushing and pulling forces across the strongest parts of the vehicle’s frame. Trying to use the wrong base plate—or installing one incorrectly—is a massive safety risk that can lead to catastrophic failure on the highway.
Your tow bar is only as strong as its connection point. The base plate is that connection, and it must be a perfect match for your vehicle. Always double-check compatibility before you buy anything.
Supplemental Braking Systems: An Absolute Must-Have
After the tow bar and base plate, a supplemental braking system is arguably the most critical safety component of all. In fact, it's required by law in nearly every state and Canadian province. This system is what applies the brakes in your towed vehicle whenever you brake in the RV, which prevents your toad from pushing against the motorhome and dramatically shortens your overall stopping distance.
You'll generally find two types of supplemental braking systems, and each comes with its own trade-offs:
- Portable Systems: These are the "box-in-the-seat" units you place on the driver's side floorboard each time you tow. They’re great because you can easily move them between different cars, but they do require setup and removal for every trip.
- Permanent Systems: These are installed directly into the toad, completely out of sight. They offer the ultimate convenience—just flip a switch, and you're good to go—but the initial installation is definitely more involved.
The choice usually boils down to convenience versus flexibility. If you're a full-timer, a permanent system is often the best long-term solution. For a complete view of your rig's safety, a high-quality camera can be invaluable; you can check out our guide on the best RV backup camera systems to improve visibility.
Tow Bar Wiring Demystified
The final piece of this safety puzzle is the wiring. This is what connects your RV's taillights to your towed vehicle's lights, ensuring your toad's brake lights, turn signals, and running lights all work in perfect sync with the motorhome. From my experience, the most reliable way to get this done is with a diode wiring kit.
Diodes act like one-way electrical gates. They let power flow from the RV to light up the toad's lights but prevent any electricity from flowing back into the toad's sensitive computer systems. This simple component prevents potentially costly electrical damage. While installation might look a little intimidating, many kits have great instructions for the DIYer. But if you're not comfortable with vehicle wiring, this is one job I’d leave to a professional.
Beyond the tow bar itself, a crucial aspect of overall towing safety involves understanding your vehicle's payload capacity, which dictates the total weight your towing rig can safely carry. Even with the best equipment, exceeding your vehicle's limits creates a dangerous situation. Market data confirms that rigs equipped for heavy hauling remain popular. For full-time RVers hauling fifth wheels (which saw an 11.13% sales dip but a 2.4% used growth in 2025), the Demco Excali-Bar II stands out as the best tow bar for flat towing, boasting self-aligning hooks and 10,000 lbs capacity that handle rugged terrains from Colorado's 50.79% sales surge to California's 6.5% shipment share. You can learn more about these market insights from BlackBook.
Making Your Final Choice: A Tow Bar Buying Checklist
Alright, we've covered a lot of ground. Now it's time to bring it all together and make a decision. This isn't about guesswork; it's about walking through a methodical process to guarantee you get the right gear for your specific rig and travel plans.
Think of this checklist as your final pre-flight inspection. Follow these steps, and you'll avoid the common pitfalls and end up with a setup that’s safe, compatible, and ready for thousands of miles of adventure.
The Five-Step Purchase Checklist
Let's make this simple. Here’s a step-by-step process that will lead you straight to a reliable towing system.
- Confirm Towed Vehicle Curb Weight: This is your starting point, and it's non-negotiable. Grab your owner's manual to find the official curb weight. Don't forget to add the weight of any heavy aftermarket gear you've installed, like steel bumpers or a loaded roof rack. I always recommend building in a healthy safety buffer.
- Verify RV Hitch Receiver Specs: Walk back to your motorhome and take a close look at the hitch. You need to confirm the receiver size—is it a 2-inch or 2.5-inch opening? More importantly, what’s its maximum towing capacity? Your tow bar absolutely must be compatible with both of these specs.
- Match the Vehicle-Specific Base Plate: I can't stress this enough—the base plate is custom-fit to your toad. You'll need the exact year, make, and model to find the one that's engineered for your vehicle. This part is the literal foundation of your whole towing setup, so get it right.
- Select a Tow Bar with Sufficient GTW: Now, pick a tow bar with a Gross Towing Weight (GTW) rating that comfortably exceeds your toad's total weight. Don't just meet the minimum. Giving yourself an extra 1,000-2,000 lbs of capacity provides a crucial safety margin for those unexpected situations on the road.
- Choose Compatible Safety Systems: Last but not least, round out your system. You'll need a supplemental braking system that fits your needs (do you prefer a portable unit or a permanent install?) and a diode wiring kit to properly integrate your toad's lights without messing with its electrical system.
Working through this checklist ensures you don't miss a single critical piece of the puzzle. A top-of-the-line tow bar is useless if it's connected to the wrong base plate, and the whole system is a hazard without the right braking and wiring.
Tailored Recommendations for Your Travel Style
To help you narrow it down even further, here are my top picks based on the kind of RVer you are.
For the Weekend Explorer:
If you're hooking up a lighter vehicle like a Jeep or a small SUV for occasional getaways, the Blue Ox Ascent is a fantastic choice. I love its lightweight aluminum build, which makes it a breeze to handle. But don't let the weight fool you; it still packs a 7,500 lb capacity and premium features like non-binding latches without the heavy-duty price.
For the Full-Time Adventurer:
When the road is your home and you're pulling a full-size truck or a big SUV, you need something that's built like a tank. The Blue Ox Avail is that workhorse. Its 10,000 lb rating and legendary non-binding arms make the daily grind of unhooking on uneven campsite terrain practically stress-free. It's an investment in peace of mind.
For the Heavy-Duty Hauler:
Towing one of the heaviest street-legal vehicles out there? The Demco Excali-Bar II is your answer. It boasts a burly 10,000 lb capacity and comes with self-supporting arms, a feature that makes hooking up a genuine one-person job. For frequent travelers, that convenience is worth its weight in gold.
The RV market is booming—it was valued at USD 48.26 billion in 2023—and that growth is fueling demand for better, more reliable towing equipment. With dealers facing a 16% rise in inventory pressures and 22% of owners now being millennials embracing the road, user-friendly features are more critical than ever. Things like tool-free installation or patented diode wiring for seamless brake light integration are what set the best gear apart. You can discover more insights about RV market stabilization on RVNews.com.
Answering Your Top Flat Towing Questions
Even after you've picked out the best gear, a few lingering questions always seem to pop up when you're new to flat towing. I've heard them all over the years, from concerns about backing into a tight spot at the gas station to wondering about wear and tear on the toad. These are the practical, real-world things every RVer runs into.
Let's clear up some of the most common questions I get from fellow travelers. Think of this as the final piece of the puzzle, designed to give you that extra bit of confidence before you hit the road.
Can You Back Up While Flat Towing?
This is easily the number one question, and my answer is always a hard no. You should never, ever try to back up your motorhome with a vehicle hooked up via a tow bar. A regular trailer pivots from a single point, which is predictable. A flat-towed vehicle is a whole different beast—its front wheels can turn on their own.
The second you try to reverse, the toad's wheels will crank hard to one side, almost instantly causing a jackknife. I've seen the aftermath, and it's not pretty. You can do serious damage to the tow bar, the base plate, and even the frames of both your RV and your car.
Here's the simple rule I live by: If you need to back up, you need to unhook. Always think ahead when pulling into fuel stations or campsites to avoid getting boxed in.
Does Flat Towing Add Miles to My Car's Odometer?
For the vast majority of popular toads, the answer is no. When you prep a vehicle like a Jeep Wrangler for towing, you put the transfer case in neutral. This effectively disconnects the wheels from the rest of the drivetrain, so they can spin freely without the transmission being engaged or the odometer ticking up.
But here's the critical part: this isn't a universal rule. Every vehicle is different. You absolutely have to pull out your car's owner's manual and follow the manufacturer's procedure to the letter. Some cars need you to run the engine for a few minutes at every stop to keep fluids circulating; others have a very specific sequence of steps. Your manual is the final word on this, no exceptions.
Should I Rotate My Toad's Tires More Often?
Yes, it's a really smart move to be more on top of tire rotations for your towed vehicle. While flat towing itself doesn't cause weird wear patterns, it piles thousands of miles onto your tires that your odometer isn't tracking. It's easy to forget, and that can lead to wearing out a perfectly good set of tires way too soon.
A simple trick I use is to tie the toad's tire rotation schedule to my motorhome's odometer. For instance, make it a habit to get a rotation done every 5,000 to 7,500 miles your RV travels. This keeps everything wearing evenly and helps you get the most life out of your tires.
What's the Point of Crossing the Safety Chains?
You'll notice any seasoned RVer will cross their safety chains—connecting the chain from the left side of the RV to the right side of the toad, and the other way around. This isn't just a quirky habit; it’s a crucial safety step.
- It Creates a "Cradle": Crossing the chains forms a sort of cradle right under the tow bar.
- It Prevents a Catastrophe: If the absolute worst happens and your tow bar completely fails and disconnects from the hitch, this cradle is designed to catch the tow bar. This stops it from digging into the pavement, which could flip the car or cause a massive accident.
- It Helps You Maintain Control: By keeping the vehicle attached, it gives you a fighting chance to get pulled over to the side of the road safely.
This quick, simple step is a non-negotiable part of a safe towing setup. Having the best tow bar for flat towing is your primary line of defense, but using your safety chains correctly is the backup plan you can't afford to skip.
With the right gear and a little bit of know-how, flat towing really is one of the best ways to travel. Here at RVupgrades, we've got a huge selection of tow bars, base plates, and braking systems from the brands I trust the most. Our team has years of hands-on RV experience, and we're always here to help you put together the perfect towing rig.
Check out our complete collection of towing solutions and get ready for your next big trip at https://www.rvupgradestore.com.
