How to Clean RV Awnings: A Practical Guide to Pristine Awnings

Knowing how to clean your RV awning is pretty straightforward: fully extend it, hit it with a gentle cleaner and a soft brush, give it a good rinse, and let it air dry completely before you roll it back up. Nailing this simple routine is the key to preventing mildew, stains, and fabric rot, which saves you a ton of cash on repairs down the line.

Why Cleaning Your RV Awning Is an Investment

Think of your RV awning as more than just a piece of fabric that gives you shade. It’s an extension of your living space and it takes a constant beating from sun, rain, wind, and debris. That’s why I always tell people to treat awning care as an investment in their rig, not just another chore on the list.

It’s easy to dismiss a little dirt, pollen, tree sap, or a few bird droppings, but that gunk traps moisture right up against the fabric. Before you know it, you’ve got a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew that will permanently stain and eat away at the material, significantly shortening its lifespan.

I’ve seen it happen time and again: neglecting your awning can seriously shorten its life. A well-maintained awning can easily last you 7-10 years. But let dirt and mildew take over, and you could be looking at a replacement in just 3-5 years—that’s a lifespan cut in half.

Know Your Awning Material

Before you start scrubbing, you absolutely have to know what kind of awning you have. Using a one-size-fits-all cleaning method is a fast track to an expensive mistake, since the two main types of awnings need to be handled differently.

• Vinyl Awnings: These are solid, non-porous, and have a protective topcoat. They do a great job resisting mildew, but they can get scratched up. If you scrub too hard or use harsh chemicals (like citrus-based cleaners or bleach), you can strip that protective layer right off, causing it to age, crack, and become brittle.
• Acrylic Awnings: This is a woven, breathable fabric, which is great because moisture can evaporate quickly. It’s naturally more resistant to mildew, but because it’s a fabric, it’s more likely to absorb stains if you don’t clean up messes right away. Harsh scrubbing can fray the fibers and damage the water-repellent finish.

The Financial Sense of Regular Cleaning

It’s not hard to see how a little routine maintenance saves you real money. A bottle of specialized awning cleaner and a soft brush will set you back about $20-$30. Compare that to the hefty price tag of replacing an awning that’s been neglected. When you let an awning go, you’re asking for tears, delamination, and even mechanical failures. You can check out our guide on the full RV awning replacement cost, but spoiler alert: it often runs from $500 to over $2,000.

For the 11 million RV-owning households in the U.S., a simple cleaning routine is one of the smartest things you can do to protect your investment. As any RVer—from the weekend warrior to the full-timer—can tell you, being proactive with maintenance is always, always cheaper than reacting to a problem.

Assembling Your Awning Cleaning Toolkit

Before you even think about scrubbing, let’s talk gear. Having the right tools on hand transforms awning cleaning from a frustrating chore into a quick, effective task. I’ve seen too many RVers make simple mistakes that could have been avoided with a little prep.

Think of it like any other RV maintenance job—proper preparation is half the battle. You wouldn’t change your oil without a wrench, and you shouldn’t clean your awning without the right brush and cleaner. A well-stocked toolkit not only makes the job easier but also protects your awning from accidental damage.

The Must-Have Cleaning Essentials

These are the non-negotiable items every RVer should have for routine cleaning. They’re simple, effective, and safe for most awning types. You likely have most of these already.

• A Soft-Bristle Brush on an Extension Pole: This is your primary tool. The soft bristles are crucial because they dislodge dirt and grime without scratching vinyl or fraying acrylic fabric. An extension pole saves your back and prevents you from dangerously overreaching on a ladder. You can find RV-friendly options under awning cleaning brushes.
• A Garden Hose with a Spray Nozzle: You don’t need a pressure washer—in fact, you should never use one as it can destroy your awning’s fabric and seams. A standard hose provides plenty of pressure to rinse away soap and debris effectively.
• Gentle, pH-Neutral Soap: For regular upkeep, a simple solution of mild dish soap (like original Dawn) mixed in a bucket of warm water is perfect. It cuts through typical dirt and road grime without harsh chemicals that can degrade the awning material.

Specialized Solutions for Tough Jobs

Sometimes, a simple soap-and-water approach just isn’t enough. When you’re facing stubborn stains like mildew, baked-on bird droppings, or sticky tree sap, you need to bring in more specialized products.

Pro Tip: Always spot-test a new cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area of your awning first. This simple step can save you from widespread discoloration or damage if the cleaner is too aggressive for your specific material.

Consider adding these to your arsenal for when the going gets tough:

• Commercial Awning Cleaners: Products from trusted brands like Thetford, Camco, or Dometic are specifically formulated for RV awnings. They contain ingredients designed to break down organic stains like mildew and algae without harming the fabric’s protective coatings. Browse RV awning cleaners to find one that matches your material.
• Vinegar and Water Solution: For a DIY approach to mildew, a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water can be highly effective. The acidity helps kill mold spores, but be sure to rinse it thoroughly.
• Isopropyl Alcohol: This is your go-to for removing sticky tree sap. Apply a small amount to a cloth and gently dab at the sap until it dissolves.

Essential vs. Specialized Awning Cleaning Supplies

Build Your RV Awning Cleaning Kit

To make shopping easier, here are the core products most RVers use to clean and protect their awnings:

Tailoring Your Toolkit for Vinyl vs. Acrylic

The biggest mistake RVers make is using the wrong supplies for their awning material. As we discussed, vinyl and acrylic are fundamentally different and require a slightly different touch.

Finally, don’t forget about your own safety. A sturdy ladder, non-slip shoes, and a pair of gloves can prevent accidents. After all, a clean awning isn’t much good if you get hurt in the process. Taking a few minutes to ensure your setup is secure is just as important as choosing the right cleaner. This same attention to safety is vital when tackling other big jobs, like learning how to clean your RV roof, where a stable footing is critical.

A Proven Method for Routine Awning Cleaning

Now that you’ve got your toolkit ready, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get to work. I’m going to walk you through a reliable, field-tested cleaning process that I’ve found delivers fantastic results for most vinyl and acrylic awnings. Forget complicated procedures; this is a straightforward method that’s all about doing the simple things right.

The goal here isn’t just a quick cosmetic fix for a weekend trip. It’s about creating a simple routine that prevents long-term damage and actually extends the life of your fabric. With just a little consistency, this process will keep your outdoor living space looking fresh and inviting for years.

Smart Prep Work Before You Get Wet

Before a single drop of water hits that awning, a little prep work goes a long, long way. Trust me, this initial step saves you from turning loose debris into a muddy mess that’s way harder to clean later.

First, fully extend your awning. A quick and surprisingly effective trick I use is a leaf blower on a low setting to blast away any loose leaves, twigs, dirt, and cobwebs from the top surface. No leaf blower? No problem. A soft-bristled broom will do the job just fine. This simple action keeps you from scrubbing grit into the fabric, which can cause tiny abrasions over time.

This diagram breaks down the essential parts of your cleaning process into three core areas.

It’s a great visual for the key stages: gathering your tools, picking the right cleaner, and remembering your safety gear.

Applying Your Cleaning Solution

Once the loose stuff is gone, it’s time to soap it up. Grab your soft brush on its extension pole, dip it into your bucket of soapy water, and start gently scrubbing the top side of the awning. I find it’s best to work in manageable sections, moving from one end to the other with overlapping strokes to ensure you don’t miss a spot.

And don’t forget the underside! The bottom of the awning collects just as much dust, pollen, and even cooking smoke. Use the same gentle scrubbing motion to clean the entire surface, paying a little extra attention to any areas directly above your outdoor kitchen or grill setup.

Pro-Tip: The ‘Roll-Up Soak’
Here’s a game-changing technique I swear by. It ensures the cleaner penetrates both sides of the fabric equally. After you’ve applied the solution to the top and bottom, retract the damp awning about 90% of the way. Let it sit rolled up like that for about 15 minutes. This little trick lets the cleaner work its magic on both surfaces at the same time, breaking down grime much more effectively.

This soak is particularly useful for tackling that hidden dirt that builds up deep within the roll. It also helps loosen any tacky spots on vinyl awnings that can cause them to stick together.

The All-Important Rinsing Process

After the ‘roll-up soak,’ it’s rinsing time. Extend the awning fully again. Using your garden hose with a spray nozzle, start rinsing from the highest point (closest to the RV) and work your way down and outward.

This step is more critical than most people think. You have to rinse until the water running off the awning is completely clear and free of soap bubbles. Any leftover soap residue will just become a sticky magnet for future dirt and can even encourage mildew growth. Take your time here; a thorough rinse is the foundation of a long-lasting clean. A systematic approach also helps prevent streaking.

If you have a canvas awning, the principles are very similar, and a comprehensive guide to boat canvas cleaning offers some additional valuable techniques for fabric care that apply here too.

The Final and Most Crucial Step: Drying

If you take only one piece of advice from this entire guide, let it be this: your awning must be bone dry before you roll it up for storage. Trapping even a little moisture inside the roll creates a dark, humid incubator—the perfect breeding ground for mildew, your awning’s number one enemy.

Let the awning air dry completely. On a warm, sunny day, this might take a couple of hours. According to awning care advice from Lippert, a major manufacturer, you should extend the awning, apply your cleaner, and then roll it up for 5-30 minutes to let the soap work. After rinsing thoroughly, they recommend letting it dry completely in the sun, which can take 2-4 hours on a warm day. Following this simple drying step is crucial for preventing mold growth, which reportedly ruins 25% of neglected awnings each year.

Patience is your best friend here. If you’re in a hurry and the weather isn’t cooperating, use a microfiber towel to get as much water off as you can. If you’re forced to retract a damp awning because of a sudden downpour, make it your top priority to unroll it and let it dry at your very next opportunity. This simple habit will save you from a world of musty smells and ugly black spots down the road.

Removing Stubborn Stains Like Mildew and Tree Sap

Sooner or later, every RVer faces a stain that just laughs at a simple soap-and-water scrub. It’s the dark speckling of mildew after a humid week, the impossibly sticky patch of tree sap, or the tell-tale sign of a bird that camped out on your awning overnight. These stubborn spots can make an otherwise clean rig look pretty neglected.

But don’t worry—these common culprits are definitely beatable. With a targeted approach and the right solutions, you can get your awning looking new again without resorting to harsh chemicals or damaging scrubbing. The key is to know what you’re dealing with and use a specific, battle-tested method to break it down.

Tackling Mildew: The Awning’s Number One Enemy

Mildew is more than just an ugly black or gray stain. It’s a living fungus that can permanently damage your awning fabric if you let it go. It absolutely loves damp, dark environments, which is exactly what you get when you roll up a wet awning.

For light mildew, a simple and effective DIY solution is often all you need. Mix up a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water in a spray bottle. Vinegar’s natural acidity is fantastic for killing mildew spores without being too harsh on your material.

Spray the solution directly onto the mildewed areas, making sure to get them good and saturated. Let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes to give the vinegar time to work its magic. Then, gently scrub the area with your soft-bristle brush before rinsing it all off with clean water.

For more persistent mildew, you might need to step up to a commercial-grade mildew stain remover designed for RV awnings. Always follow the product’s instructions and—most importantly—spot-test on an inconspicuous area first to make sure it doesn’t cause any discoloration.

Mildew is a huge issue in the RV community. Research actually indicates that 65% of RV owners say mildew is their top awning problem. Left untreated, it can lead to costly replacements averaging between $800 and $2,000. Properly dealing with mildew not only saves your awning’s appearance but also your wallet.

Defeating Sticky Tree Sap

Parking under a beautiful, shady pine tree is one of the joys of camping—until you find your awning covered in sticky, stubborn sap. This is one of those stains where acting fast makes a huge difference, but even dried-on sap can be removed.

The trick is to use a solvent that dissolves the sap without hurting the awning fabric. Your best bet here is isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

• Gently Scrape First: If the sap is thick and has hardened, use a plastic putty knife or an old credit card to gently scrape off as much as you can. Avoid using anything metal that could tear the fabric.
• Apply the Solvent: Dampen a clean microfiber cloth with rubbing alcohol.
• Blot, Don’t Rub: Gently blot the sap spot with the alcohol-soaked cloth. You’ll see the sap start to dissolve and transfer to the cloth. Keep turning the cloth to a clean section to avoid just spreading the sticky residue around.
• Rinse Clean: Once the sap is gone, clean the area with a little mild soap and water to remove any leftover alcohol, then give it a thorough rinse.

For one of the most common and challenging stains on RV awnings, you can learn how to safely remove tree sap from vehicle surfaces, as many of the same principles apply. This is a common headache for about 25% of campers who frequently park in shaded spots.

Handling Bird Droppings and Other Organic Stains

Bird droppings aren’t just gross; they’re also acidic and can etch into your awning’s surface if left for too long. The best time to clean them is right after they happen, but let’s be real, that’s not always possible.

For fresh droppings, you can usually just wipe them away with a damp cloth. If they’ve dried, you’ll need to soften them first. Spray the spot with some water and let it sit for a few minutes to rehydrate the mess. Then, use a plastic scraper to lift off the solids before cleaning what’s left with mild soap and water.

This softening trick also works well for squashed bugs and other organic gunk. The main goal is to avoid grinding the debris deeper into the fabric.

Erasing Rust Marks from Hardware

Sometimes, the stains don’t come from the great outdoors but from the awning itself. Rust marks can transfer from the roller tube or support arms onto the fabric, leaving behind ugly orange-brown streaks.

These can be tricky, but a common household remedy often works wonders: lemon juice and salt.

1. Make a paste of lemon juice and salt.
2. Apply the paste directly onto the rust stain.
3. Let it sit in the sun for an hour or two. The combination of the acid in the lemon juice and the mild abrasive quality of the salt, supercharged by UV light, helps break down the rust.
4. Gently scrub the area with your soft brush and rinse it off completely.

This method is generally safe for both vinyl and acrylic, but as always, doing a small spot test is a smart move. For really stubborn rust, you may need a dedicated fabric rust remover. With these targeted strategies, you’ve got the know-how to tackle almost any stain your RV adventures throw at you.

Proactive Maintenance to Extend Your Awning’s Life

Once you’ve wrestled every last bit of grime off your awning, you might be tempted to call it a day. But the job isn’t quite done. A clean awning is fantastic, but a long-lasting one is even better. This is where you shift from reactive cleaning to proactive care—and it’s what truly maximizes your investment and keeps your awning adventure-ready for years.

These simple maintenance habits are often the difference between an awning that lasts a decade and one that needs replacing in just a few seasons. It’s all about protecting the fabric and hardware from the very elements they’re designed to shield you from.

Shielding Your Awning from Sun Damage

The sun is your awning’s biggest frenemy. It gives you light for your campsite and helps dry the fabric after a good wash, but those UV rays are constantly working to break down the material. Over time, that relentless exposure leads to fading, brittleness, and eventually, tears.

After a deep clean is the perfect time to apply a UV protectant spray. Think of it like sunscreen for your awning. These products create an invisible barrier that deflects harmful rays. Applying a quality protectant once or twice a season is a small step that pays huge dividends in preventing premature aging. For vinyl, look for a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant. For acrylic, use a fabric-specific guard.

Reapplying Waterproofing Treatments

For those with acrylic awnings, that factory water-repellent finish is what makes rain bead up and roll right off. But with time, cleaning, and general exposure, that coating can wear down. If you notice your acrylic awning is starting to absorb water or "wet out" during a rainstorm, it’s a clear sign it’s time for a re-treatment.

You can find spray-on waterproofing treatments designed specifically for outdoor fabrics, like 303 Fabric Guard. Just apply an even coat to your clean, dry awning, and let it cure completely according to the product instructions. This simple task restores its performance, ensuring it sheds rain just like new.

Your Simple Maintenance Checklist

Beyond protective sprays, a little hands-on inspection goes a long way. You don’t need to be a mechanic; a quick visual check can help you spot minor issues before they turn into major headaches. If you do find a tear or a mechanical problem, our guide on how to fix an RV awning can walk you through the next steps.

Here’s a simple checklist to run through a few times a year:

• Inspect All Seams and Stitching: Look for frayed threads or spots where seams might be pulling apart. Catching this early can prevent a small tear from becoming a large, wind-whipped gash.
• Check Hardware for Rust or Corrosion: Take a look at the awning arms, brackets, and roller tube. A little surface rust can often be cleaned off, but significant corrosion could weaken the whole structure.
• Lubricate the Roller Mechanism: A quick spray of silicone lubricant on the moving parts of your awning arms and roller mechanism keeps everything operating smoothly and prevents unnecessary strain.

Smart Habits for Daily Use

Finally, some of the most effective maintenance comes down to how you use your awning day-to-day. A few small habits can prevent some pretty catastrophic damage.

Always tilt one side of your awning slightly lower than the other during a rainstorm. This creates a designated runoff point and prevents water from pooling in the middle, which can stretch the fabric and even bend or break the support arms under the weight.

Also, get into the habit of retracting your awning during high winds. A sudden, powerful gust can turn that awning into a giant sail, ripping it away from the RV and leading to thousands of dollars in damage. It only takes a moment to roll it in, but that moment can save you from a trip-ending disaster. These small, consistent actions are the real secret to a long and healthy awning life.

Your Top Awning Cleaning Questions Answered

Even with the best cleaning guide, you’re bound to run into a few specific questions. I’ve been there. Getting straight answers can save you from a costly mistake, so let’s tackle some of the most common queries I hear from fellow RVers out on the road.

Can I Use a Pressure Washer on My RV Awning?

I get this one a lot, and the answer is a hard no. It might seem like a quick way to blast off dirt, but a pressure washer is way too aggressive for awning materials.

That high-pressure stream can easily shred vinyl, tear the stitching on acrylic fabrics, and completely strip off the UV and water-repellent coatings that protect your investment. Most manufacturers will flat-out void your warranty if they find out you’ve used one. A regular garden hose with a decent spray nozzle is all the power you need to rinse your awning safely.

How Often Should I Really Clean My Awning?

There’s no single magic number here—it really boils down to how you use your RV.

• Full-Timers & Forest Campers: If you’re living in your rig or constantly parked under trees dropping sap and leaves, a light cleaning every month or two is a good habit. It stops grime from building up in the first place.
• Weekend Warriors & Casual Campers: For those of us who take occasional trips to less dusty spots, a good deep clean at the start and end of the season usually does the trick.

My most important piece of advice? Spot-clean messes the moment you see them. Bird droppings, tree sap, and bug splatters are a cinch to remove when they’re fresh but become a real pain once the sun bakes them in.

My Awning Is Sticking When I Unroll It. What’s the Deal?

This is a classic issue, especially with vinyl awnings. A little humidity and a thin film of dirt can make the material tacky, causing it to glue itself together when rolled up. Whatever you do, don’t try to force it open—that’s a surefire way to get a tear.

The best approach is to have a friend gently pull down on the awning strap while you use a soft-ended pole (or a proper awning wand) to carefully nudge the stuck layers apart as it unrolls. Once you get it open, give it a good cleaning and—this is crucial—make sure it’s 100% dry before rolling it back up. Applying a vinyl protectant afterward can also help keep it from sticking next time.

What’s the Real Difference Between Cleaning Vinyl vs. Acrylic?

Knowing your material is half the battle. They look similar, but you have to treat them differently because of how they’re made.

• Vinyl: Think of this as a solid, non-porous sheet with a clear protective topcoat. Your main goal is to clean it without scratching that coating. That means using a very soft brush and steering clear of any harsh, abrasive chemicals.
• Acrylic: This is a woven, breathable fabric, almost like a heavy-duty outdoor canvas. It’s treated with a water-repellent finish. Because it’s a textile, you can use a slightly stiffer (but still soft!) brush to work the cleaner into the weave. The key here is to use cleaners that won’t damage that vital water-repellent coating.

If you’re ever unsure what kind of awning you have, just check your owner’s manual. A quick look can save you from using the wrong product and causing a headache down the road.

For all the specialized cleaners, protectants, and soft-bristle brushes you need to keep your awning in pristine condition, explore the extensive selection at RVupgrades.com. Find everything you need to tackle any cleaning job with confidence at https://www.rvupgradestore.com.