When it comes time to put your RV away for the winter, the single most important job is to drain all the water from your plumbing and add non-toxic RV antifreeze. This isn’t just a suggestion—it’s the only way to protect your pipes from freezing, expanding, and cracking under the pressure.
The process involves completely emptying your fresh, gray, and black water tanks, making sure the water heater is bypassed and drained, and then pushing that bright pink antifreeze through every single line, faucet, and toilet. Following these steps now is infinitely better than discovering a burst pipe and a flooded interior come spring.
Why Winterizing Your RV Is Not Optional
Before we get into the nuts and bolts, let’s be crystal clear about what’s at stake. Winterizing your rig isn’t just another item on a maintenance checklist; it’s absolutely crucial for preventing catastrophic damage from freezing temperatures.
When water freezes, it expands by about 9%. That might not sound like much, but it exerts an incredible amount of pressure on everything it’s contained in. That pressure can easily crack pipes, destroy plastic fittings, ruin your water pump, and even split your water heater tank wide open. These aren’t minor fixes—a single cracked line hidden in a wall can lead to thousands of dollars in water damage, mold, and rot.
The Real Cost of Skipping Winterization
This isn’t just a theoretical problem; it’s a painful reality many RV owners face. In northern states like Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Montana—where getting 60 inches of snow is just a normal winter—proper winterization is non-negotiable.
The data backs this up, showing that average winter damage claims are roughly 40% higher for RVs left in outdoor storage without being prepped. This really highlights how essential this process is to protect your investment. You can learn more about how different climates affect your rig by checking out some expert RV storage guides.
The core idea is simple: if water is in your system, it’s a liability. Your goal is to either get every last drop out or replace it with something that won’t freeze and expand—which is exactly what non-toxic RV antifreeze is for.
This guide is a practical, step-by-step walkthrough based on real-world experience, not just a list of rules from a manual. We’ll cover everything you need to know, from the plumbing and batteries to the exterior seals and keeping critters out. Follow along, and your RV will be safe, sound, and ready for adventure when the weather warms up.
Here’s a quick overview of the essential tasks we’ll cover in detail. Use this to familiarize yourself with the process before we dive in.
RV Winterization Core Tasks at a Glance
| System Area | Primary Goal | Key Action |
|---|---|---|
| Plumbing | Prevent freeze damage | Drain all tanks & lines; circulate RV antifreeze |
| Electrical & Batteries | Preserve battery health & life | Disconnect or remove batteries; store properly |
| Appliances & HVAC | Protect internal components | Drain, clean, and prep fridge, furnace, A/C |
| Exterior & Seals | Block moisture and drafts | Inspect and repair all seals, seams, and roofing |
| Pest Control | Keep critters out | Seal entry points; remove food; use deterrents |
Now that you have the big picture, let’s get into the specifics.
Getting Your Winterization Gear Together
Nothing derails a project faster than a last-minute run to the hardware store. Before you even touch a single valve or drain plug, get organized. Taking a few minutes now to gather all your gear will make the whole winterization process go smoothly.
Having everything you need within arm’s reach is the first step to a stress-free winter prep day. Most of this stuff is easy to find at any RV supply store, Walmart, or online.
The Absolute Must-Haves
Your basic winterization kit isn’t huge, but every single item here is critical. This is exactly what you’ll need to get the antifreeze method done right and protect your plumbing from a deep freeze.
- Non-Toxic RV Antifreeze: This is the star of the show. You’ll want 2-3 gallons of the pink stuff, which is made specifically for RV plumbing and is completely non-toxic. I can’t stress this enough: Never, ever use automotive antifreeze (the green or orange kind). It’s poisonous and will ruin your freshwater system for good. Stick with products labeled as RV and marine antifreeze.
- Water Heater Bypass Kit: If your rig doesn’t have one of these factory-installed, you absolutely need one. Without it, you’ll waste gallons of antifreeze trying to fill up your 6 or 10-gallon water heater tank—which should be drained and left empty all winter anyway. A simple water heater bypass kit pays for itself in one season.
- Water Pump Converter Kit: This little kit is a lifesaver. It’s basically a short hose that lets you connect your water pump directly to the antifreeze jug. This allows the pump to suck antifreeze straight from the source and push it through all your pipes, making the job quick and clean. Look for an RV water pump winterizing/converter kit that fits your setup.
Tools That Make the Job a Lot Easier
While the list above covers the basics for using antifreeze, a couple of other tools can make life easier or are essential if you prefer a different method. I’d seriously consider adding these to your toolbox.
A blowout plug is a cheap little brass fitting that screws into your city water connection and hooks up to an air compressor. It lets you use compressed air to force every last drop of water out of your lines. It’s the main tool you’ll need for an “air-only” winterization or if you just want to be extra thorough before adding the pink stuff. You’ll find them listed as RV water line blowout plugs.
My Pro Tip: When you’re using a blowout plug, you have to use an adjustable pressure regulator on your air compressor. Keep the pressure low—at or below 40 PSI. Anything higher can easily crack the plastic PEX tubing and fittings in your RV, causing the exact kind of leaks you’re trying to prevent this winter.
Protecting Your RV Plumbing System
When it comes to winterizing your RV, the plumbing system is the undisputed main event. Frozen water lines are the single biggest cause of expensive, preventable damage, turning a winter nap into a springtime nightmare.
If you get this part right, you’ve won most of the battle.
There are two effective methods to protect your pipes: the RV antifreeze method and the compressed air method. While both get the job done, using antifreeze is by far the most popular and surefire way to ensure total protection. We’ll walk through both, starting with the classic pink-stuff approach.
Starting with a Clean Slate: Draining Your Tanks
Before you can even think about adding antifreeze or air, you need to get every last drop of water out of your system. This process always starts with your holding tanks.
Begin by completely draining your black water tank at an approved dump station. Once it’s empty, give it a good flush using your RV’s built-in black tank flush or a cleaning wand. After the black tank is clean and empty, drain your gray water tank. Doing it in this order allows the soapy gray water to help rinse any lingering solids from your sewer hose.
Finally, open the drain valve for your freshwater tank and let it empty completely. You can speed this up by opening a faucet inside the RV, which lets air into the system and helps it drain faster. If you need hoses, caps, or valves for this part, browse our fresh and waste water accessories.
The Critical Water Heater Bypass
With your tanks empty, the next step is absolutely non-negotiable: bypassing your water heater. If you skip this, you will waste gallons of antifreeze filling a tank that doesn’t need it. The whole point is to drain the heater and keep it isolated from the rest of the plumbing all winter.
First things first, make sure the water heater is turned off and completely cool. Never drain a hot or pressurized tank. Once it’s safe, locate the drain plug on the outside of your RV (it’s often a plastic plug or a metal anode rod) and pull it. Open the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank to let it drain quicker.
Now, head inside your RV and find the access panel for the back of the water heater. You’ll see a series of valves. Adjust them to the bypass position, which will redirect the flow of antifreeze around the tank instead of into it. If you don’t already have one, this is where an RV water heater bypass kit earns its keep.
Pumping Antifreeze Through the System
Now for the main task. Using a water pump converter kit, you’ll draw non-toxic RV antifreeze directly from the jug and circulate it through every single pipe.
- Place the siphon tube from your converter kit directly into a gallon of pink RV antifreeze.
- Turn on your RV’s water pump. You’ll hear it start pulling the antifreeze into the plumbing lines.
- Go to the faucet farthest from the pump (usually the kitchen sink or shower) and open the cold water tap. Let it run until you see a steady stream of pink antifreeze, then close it.
- Do the same for the hot water tap at that same faucet. Once it runs pink, shut it off.
- Systematically move through your RV, repeating this for every single faucet: bathroom sink, indoor shower, and that often-forgotten outdoor shower.
- Finally, press the pedal on your toilet until you see pink antifreeze appear in the bowl. I always pour an extra cup or two down the toilet to protect the valve, and some into each sink and shower drain to fill the P-traps.
This infographic shows the key gear you’ll need for either the antifreeze or the compressed air method.
It’s a simple visual guide that reinforces a key point: whether you choose antifreeze, a bypass kit, or a blowout plug, having the right tools makes the process straightforward.
A common question I get is how much antifreeze you’ll actually need. From my experience winterizing a 2020 Keystone Bullet travel trailer, the process required about 2.5 gallons of the pink stuff to do the job right. If you have a helper who can close faucets quickly, you can sometimes get that down to around 2 gallons. You can see more real-world examples on how much antifreeze an RV might need on YouTube.
The Compressed Air Blowout Method
For those who prefer not to use antifreeze in their freshwater lines, the compressed air method is a solid alternative. The goal here is to physically push all the water out of the pipes, leaving them empty and safe from freezing.
The key piece of equipment is a blowout plug, a simple brass fitting that connects your city water inlet to an air compressor. You’ll find these under names like RV blowout plug for winterizing.
Crucial Safety Note: You absolutely must use an adjustable pressure regulator on your air compressor. Keep the pressure at or below 40 PSI. Any higher, and you risk blowing out your RV’s PEX tubing and fittings, creating the very leaks you’re trying to prevent.
Here’s how to do it safely:
- Connect the blowout plug to your city water inlet and attach your air compressor hose.
- Set the compressor’s regulator to a low pressure, somewhere between 30-40 PSI.
- Just like with antifreeze, start at the faucet farthest away. Open one tap (hot or cold) and let the air push the water out. It will sputter and spray until only air comes out.
- Close that tap and open the other one at the same faucet. Repeat the process.
- Work your way through every faucet, shower, and the toilet until every line is clear of water. Don’t forget the low-point drains—I always open them last to blow out any final puddles.
Even if you use the air method, it’s still best practice to pour a cup of RV antifreeze down each drain to protect the P-traps and into the toilet bowl for the seal. This hybrid approach offers excellent protection and real peace of mind.
Prepping Electrical Systems and Appliances
While the plumbing gets all the attention during winterization, and for good reason, your electrical system and appliances are a close second. If you ignore them, you’re setting yourself up for some expensive headaches come springtime from freezing, moisture, and even pests. A little bit of prep work here goes a long way.
The biggest threat to your electrical system is your house batteries. Here’s a fact every RVer should know: a fully charged lead-acid battery is fine until temperatures hit a bone-chilling -76°F (-60°C). But a completely dead battery? That can freeze solid and be permanently ruined at just 32°F (0°C). A dead battery is a costly mistake that’s surprisingly easy to avoid.
Managing Your RV Batteries for Winter
In my experience, the best way to keep your house batteries safe is to just take them out of the equation. Disconnect them and bring them inside where they won’t face the extreme cold, like a garage or basement.
Here’s my tried-and-true process for battery care:
- Safety First. Make sure you’re disconnected from shore power and flip your main battery disconnect switch to “off.” When you’re ready to unhook the batteries, always start with the negative (black) cable first, then the positive (red). This little step prevents you from accidentally creating a spark and shorting something out.
- Clean Up the Terminals. Give the terminals a quick inspection for any fuzzy-looking corrosion. A simple paste of baking soda and water, scrubbed on with an old wire brush, will clean them up like new.
- Store and Maintain. Find a good spot for them for the winter. Place them on a piece of wood or plastic—never directly on a concrete floor. The most important step is to hook them up to a quality battery tender or trickle charger. This keeps them topped off all winter long, ensuring they’re healthy and ready to go in the spring. You’ll find plenty of options in our battery maintainer and trickle charger category.
I hear a lot of people say they just leave their RV plugged in all winter to keep the batteries charged. While modern converters are much smarter than they used to be, they aren’t really designed for months of unattended charging. Pulling the batteries out gives you total control and eliminates any risk of overcharging or other weird electrical gremlins.
Winterizing Your Major Appliances
Your appliances need a little love too. The main goal here is to make sure they are clean, dry, and sealed up so you don’t come back to mold, mildew, or damaged parts. Every appliance is a bit different, but the general idea is the same.
Your Refrigerator and Freezer
Trust me on this one: leaving your fridge shut all winter is a recipe for disaster. Any bit of moisture or leftover food crumb can turn into a fuzzy science experiment. The smell that creates is almost impossible to get rid of.
To prep your fridge the right way:
- Empty and Defrost. Take everything out. Every last condiment and ice cube. Turn the unit off and let it completely defrost.
- Clean It Out. Wipe down every single surface inside with a mild cleaner or a baking soda solution. Don’t forget to clean the rubber door seals, too.
- Prop the Doors Open. This is the most critical part. Use a towel, a small block of wood, or a special latch to keep the fridge and freezer doors slightly ajar. Airflow is your best friend here—it keeps everything bone dry and prevents musty odors.
Your Furnace and Air Conditioner
Your HVAC system needs a quick once-over as well. The first thing you should do is turn off the propane supply at the main tank valve. This is a non-negotiable safety step. Then, head inside and set your thermostat to the “off” position.
This is also the perfect opportunity to clean or replace your furnace and A/C filters. Dust and gunk that sit there all winter will just get blown around in the spring and can hurt your system’s performance.
If your RV is stored outside, I highly recommend getting an air conditioner cover. It’s a simple thing, but it does a fantastic job of protecting the unit from snow, ice, and falling debris. It keeps moisture from working its way into your roof and damaging the A/C’s components over the long, cold winter.
Securing the RV Exterior for Winter
Your RV’s exterior is its first line of defense against the harsh realities of winter. Think of it as a shield against relentless snow, ice, and wind. Taking the time to properly secure the outside of your rig now is a smart investment that prevents cosmetic damage like fading and cracking, and more serious issues like water leaks.
The whole process kicks off with a thorough cleaning. Before you do anything else, give your RV a good wash from top to bottom. This isn’t just about making it look nice; it’s about removing accumulated dirt, road grime, bird droppings, or tree sap. If you let that stuff sit all winter, it can permanently damage your rig’s finish and decals. I always pay special attention to the roof, since that’s where moisture and debris love to hang out.
Inspecting and Resealing Every Seam
Once your RV is sparkling clean, it’s time for what I consider the most important part of exterior prep: a detailed inspection of every single seal and seam. I’ve seen it happen dozens of times—even a tiny crack in the sealant lets water seep in, freeze, expand, and turn a five-minute fix into a major repair job.
Grab a ladder and get up close and personal with these critical areas:
- Roof Fixtures: Check the seals around every roof vent, skylight, air conditioner, and antenna. Look for any signs of cracking, peeling, or gaps in the sealant.
- Windows and Doors: Inspect the weatherstripping and sealant around all windows, doors, and storage compartments. It should feel pliable and be fully intact.
- Slide-Outs: Pay close attention to the seals on your slide-outs. These are notorious failure points and need to be in perfect condition to keep moisture out.
If you find compromised sealant, don’t just patch over it. The right way to fix it is to carefully remove the old, damaged sealant with a plastic scraper, clean the area thoroughly with a solvent like denatured alcohol, and then apply a fresh, even bead of a quality RV-specific sealant. Using the right product, like a self-leveling lap sealant for horizontal roof surfaces, is absolutely key to a lasting repair. You’ll find plenty of options in our RV roof sealants and caulks section.
Your RV’s exterior is a complex system of panels and components held together by sealant. Think of that sealant as the grout between tiles in a shower. If even a small piece is missing, water will find a way in. A meticulous inspection now is your best defense against the freeze-thaw cycle that can turn tiny gaps into major leaks.
Protecting Your Tires and Chassis
Don’t forget about what’s underneath. Your tires and chassis also need some attention before being put away for the long winter. Tires that sit in one spot for months on end are susceptible to developing flat spots and suffering from UV damage, which leads to premature cracking and failure.
Start by giving the tires and wheels a good cleaning to get rid of any brake dust or road grime. Once they’re dry, inflate them to the maximum cold pressure recommended by the manufacturer—you can find this on the tire sidewall or the RV’s data plate. This helps them maintain their shape and prevents those annoying flat spots.
To protect them from the sun’s damaging rays, invest in a good set of tire covers. They’re inexpensive and make a huge difference in extending the life of your rubber. Check out our range of RV tire covers sized for trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes. If you can, avoid parking on dirt or grass, as the moisture seeping up from the ground can accelerate rust on the chassis and wheel components.
Choosing the Right RV Cover
If you’re storing your RV outdoors, a cover is your best bet for protecting it from the elements. But this is one area where you don’t want to cheap out. Many people are tempted to just throw a generic plastic or vinyl tarp over their rig, but trust me, this is a huge mistake.
Plastic tarps are non-breathable, which means they trap moisture underneath. This creates a humid, stagnant environment—the perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew. I’ve seen covers come off in the spring to reveal more damage than the snow would have ever caused.
Instead, you need a cover made from a breathable, multi-layer fabric. These specialized RV covers are designed to be water-resistant to keep rain and snow out, but they allow air to circulate freely, letting any trapped moisture escape. This is absolutely critical for preventing mold and keeping your RV’s exterior in pristine condition. A quality cover is a significant part of a good winterization plan. You can find options sized for travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes in our RV covers category.
Making the Interior Pest-Proof
Your cozy RV interior looks like a five-star hotel to mice and other critters trying to escape the cold. A final, thorough sweep of the inside is one of the most important parts of winterizing your rig. Trust me, you don’t want to come back in the spring to find unwelcome guests have moved in. The goal here is simple: make your RV as uninviting as possible.
The absolute first rule of pest-proofing is to remove every single crumb of food. And I mean everything. Empty the fridge, freezer, pantry, and all the cabinets. Go through every last drawer—that forgotten bag of trail mix or box of crackers is basically a neon “vacancy” sign for rodents.
Sealing Every Entry Point
Once the buffet is officially closed, it’s time to play detective and hunt down every potential entry point. A mouse can squeeze through a hole the size of a dime, so you have to be meticulous here. Get underneath your RV and inspect every inch, paying close attention to gaps around plumbing lines, wiring, and slide-out mechanisms.
Your best friend for this job is steel wool. It’s cheap, simple, and rodents absolutely cannot chew through it. I make sure to pack it tightly into any opening I find, especially where pipes and electrical lines pass through the floor. For larger gaps, you can use expanding spray foam, but I’ve found that steel wool is the most foolproof barrier against a determined mouse.
Choosing Your Deterrents
With the food gone and the doors locked tight, the final layer of your defense is making the inside smell awful—to pests, anyway. There are a ton of options out there, but some definitely work better than others from my experience.
- Peppermint Oil: This is a classic for a reason. Just soak some cotton balls in pure peppermint oil and toss them into cabinets, drawers, and storage bays. The scent is pleasant to us but completely overwhelming for rodents.
- Fresh Cab or Grandpa Gus’s: These are commercial botanical repellents that I’ve had great success with. They come in little pouches and use balsam fir oil to create a strong, woodsy smell that pests can’t stand. I scatter a few of these throughout my rig every winter. You can find similar rodent repellent pouches in the RV accessories section.
- Sonic Repellents: Honestly, the jury is still out on these. Some RV owners swear by them, but I’ve heard just as many stories about mice getting used to the sound over time. They might be worth a shot as part of a larger strategy, but don’t rely on them as your only line of defense.
Remember, the key is to create multiple layers of defense. A spotless, food-free interior combined with sealed entry points and strong, unappealing scents makes your RV a fortress that pests will likely skip for an easier target.
Final Interior Prep for Storage
Your last few tasks are all about preventing moisture buildup and freeze damage inside. Start by removing any and all liquids that could freeze and burst. This includes everything from cleaning supplies and canned drinks to toiletries and medications.
Next, prop open all your cabinet doors and drawers. It’s a simple trick, but it does wonders for promoting air circulation and preventing that musty, closed-up smell from developing over the winter. To really tackle humidity, place some moisture-absorbing products like DampRid buckets or reusable silica gel packs in a few key spots, like the main living area and the bathroom. You’ll find plenty of RV moisture absorbers and dehumidifier tubs that are made for exactly this job.
Taking these steps seriously is part of a bigger picture. The global boat and RV storage market is valued at around USD 7.8 billion in 2024, largely because owners in cold climates know that proper prep is non-negotiable for protecting their investment. If you’re curious, you can learn more about the growing RV storage market on dataintelo.com. Putting in this effort now ensures you’ll come back to a clean, fresh, and pest-free RV next season.
Answering Your Winterization Questions
Even with a solid checklist, questions always come up. It’s just part of the process. Whether you’re doing this for the first time or the tenth, a few common uncertainties can trip you up. Let’s tackle some of the most frequent questions I hear from fellow RVers.
How Much Antifreeze Do I Really Need?
I always tell people to have 2-3 gallons of non-toxic RV antifreeze on hand. The exact amount you’ll use really depends on the size and layout of your RV’s plumbing. A small travel trailer might only take just under two gallons. On the other hand, a big fifth wheel—especially one with a washer/dryer hookup—could easily push past three.
My advice? It’s always better to have a little extra than to run out halfway through the job. You can always save any leftover antifreeze for next season. Stocking up on a case of RV antifreeze jugs before the first hard freeze is never a bad idea.
Can I Just Use Air Pressure Instead of Antifreeze?
Absolutely. Using compressed air to blow out the water lines is a popular way to go. But you have to be careful. You must keep the pressure at or below 40 PSI to avoid blowing out your PEX tubing and fittings, which is a headache you definitely don’t want.
Lots of seasoned RVers, myself included, actually do a mix of both. I like to use compressed air to force out as much water as possible first, then follow up by pumping antifreeze through the lines. It’s a “belt-and-suspenders” approach, but it gives me total peace of mind.
What Happens If I Miss a Spot?
Missing just one water line—like forgetting about an outdoor shower or a low-point drain—can lead to a cracked pipe. It doesn’t take much. Even a small amount of trapped water will freeze, expand, and cause a leak you won’t find until you’re de-winterizing in the spring.
This is exactly why following a checklist is so important. When in doubt, it never hurts to run a little extra antifreeze through the system just to be safe.
At RVupgrades.com, we stock all the winterization essentials you need, from non-toxic RV antifreeze and blowout plugs to water heater bypass kits, water pump winterizing kits, covers, and pest deterrents. With over 20,000 products and fast shipping, we make it easy to protect your investment for the cold months ahead. Get your winterization gear in one stop at RVupgrades.com.
